FROM FORT BENTON TO LATITUDE 49 ° 30 '. 
543 
REPORT OF MR. JAMES DOTY OF A SURVEY FROM FORT BENTON, NEAR THE GREAT FALLS OF THE 
MISSOURI, ALONG THE EASTERN BASE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, TO LATITUDE 49° 30' N. 
Olympia, W. T., December 15, 1854. 
Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report of a survey from Fort Benton, near the 
Great falls of the Missouri, along the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, to latitude 49° 30'. 
May 10, 1854.—Morning cloudy and cool, with the thermometer 47° at 7 a. m. Had the 
horses brought up early, but it took a long time to pack them, especially the mules, which were 
very unruly on account of their long furlough from work. At 11a. m. left Fort Benton, heartily 
glad to be out of it, and once more in the plains. My party consisted of Hugh Monroe, inter¬ 
preter and guide; Henry Roaster and Benjamin Lint, soldiers; and an Indian boy to lead the 
odometer, which was fixed on a light pair of wheels drawn by one horse. Taking a course 
about south 20° west, passed up the Missouri river, and struck it at the mouth of a large ravine 
known as the “Big Coulee.” Here we camped, having made 11£ miles. 
May 11.—Morning clear and very warm. The mules were difficult to catch and pack, and 
we made a late start. Took a course for the Great falls, endeavoring to keep near the river. 
Crossed a number of deep ravines, and finally came to some that were impassable, and were 
compelled to go around them. These ravines commence in the dividing ridge between the Mis¬ 
souri and Teton rivers. They are narrow, one hundred and fifty to three hundred feet deep, 
with a steep descent to within fifty feet of the bottom, and for the remaining distance are perpen¬ 
dicular walls of red sandstone. Saw during the day numbers of antelope. At 5 p. m. had a 
thunder-shower, accompanied by a srong and very cold wind from the north. Just at sundown 
heard the roar of the falls, and saw the cloud of spray always hanging over them. The descent 
towards the falls is by an easy slope until reaching a nearly perpendicular descent of fifty feet, 
over red and gray sandstone rock. Descending this, we found ourselves upon a grassy plateau 
three or four acres in extent, the descent from which is also perpendicular, excepting in one 
place, where the mules got down. This brought us nearly on a level with the river; and cross¬ 
ing a luxuriant grass plat, and down another stair or step, w T e were at the water’s edge. Here 
we encamped, almost under the Great falls, and in the identical place where Lewis and Clark 
encamped when they ascended the Missouri. Made to-day 28.77 miles. 
May 12.—Morning clear and very warm, even before sunrise. Being much in need of fresh 
meat, I went hunting in the hills, and in an hour killed an antelope. After breakfast I examined 
the falls. They are about eighty feet in height, formed by a barrier of limestone and hard red 
sandstone, and the perpendicular bluffs on either side of the river are of the same formation. 
Immediately below the falls is a point of rocks extending one-third of the distance across the 
stream, and terminating in a platform two hundred feet square and fifty feet high. When the 
river rises this rock becomes an island, as is evidenced by the large piles of drift-wood lying upon 
the point connecting it wfith the shore. From this rock is obtained the best view of the “Great 
Falls” of the Missouri, which, although not equalling Niagara in grandeur and sublimity, yet pre¬ 
sents a grand and beautiful scene; and looking upon it in the wildness and loveliness of the 
plains, the snow-clad peaks of the Rocky mountains in full view, reflecting that it is 2,500 
miles from civilization, and how few white men have seen it, it presented to me a scene full of 
interest. The narrow bottom skirting the river below the fall extends some eighty rods in length, 
and contains about five acres. Upon it are growing a few dwarf cotton-wood, red cedar, box 
alder, and cherry bushes. I noticed here several varieties of flowers. Of the grizzly and brown 
bears, so numerous here in the days of Lewis and Clark, no trace remains save a solitary den 
in the rock, where some huge grizzly passed the winter. 
Had much difficulty in getting the mules up the rocky road they came down, and it was 11 
o’clock before we were fairly under way. Took a course northeast, to head the coulees, and 
then turned nearly due south. In four miles passed near the upper full, which I visited last 
