FROM FORT BENTON TO LATITUDE 49 ° 30 '. 
547 
Marias river, and some years since was a favorite resort for the Assiniboins and Crows, who con¬ 
cealed themselves in the thickets and attacked small hunting parties of the Blackfeet. To-night 
we have no fresh meat, and there is only sufficient bacon for a day or two. 
May 22 .—Started early, hoping to reach the main stream of Marias river to-day. Road hard 
for the odometer wagon, on account of crossing so many small streams bordered by thickets of 
willow and small poplar. Passed many small lakes from one to twenty acres in extent, clear and 
deep. In fourteen miles came to Badger creek, a rapid stream fifty feet wide, and fordable with 
difficulty. This is also a fork of Marias river. In three miles more crossed a beautiful little 
stream, well timbered with large cotton-wood, and I name it “Cotton-wood fork.” Continue to 
pass many small lakes. The country is now becoming rich and beautiful, and the grasss so lux¬ 
uriant as to form a heavy turf. The soil is dark loam. 
Saw three elk and a doe moose, and killed her fawn, the skin of which I preserved. At 6 p. m. 
reached the main stream of Marias river, or, as it is called by the Blackfeet, Kay-i-you, or Bear river. 
Character of the stream much the same as lower down near Fort Benton; valley narrow and at 
least four hundred feet below the plain, which is intersected by tremendous coulees running back 
a mile or two from the river. Descending a very steep hill, found that we had struck the river 
just below where a large fork comes in on the opposite side. The river is high, and the current 
very swift. After selecting the best place to ford I endeavored to cross, but my horse lost his 
footing, and was carried down stream with great velocily. It was impossible to turn back, and 
w r e came very near drowning, but finally reached the opposite shore without damage save the 
wetting of my field and note books. 
It was impossible for my party to cross in the present stages of water, and I determined to go 
higher up on the mountains. It was necessary, however, to return to my party, and I accom¬ 
plished this by fastening gun, coat, &c., on my horse, and driving him over, when I swam 
across myself. Encamped on the upper end of the point among a few willows, there being no 
timber here. Had a heavy thunder-storm in the evening, and the rain fell in torrents. Made 
to-day 22 miles. 
May 23 .—Morning cloudy and cold. The rain of last night raised the river 18 inches. Pur¬ 
sued a southwest course up the river, passing over high hills and through fertile valleys, in which 
were many small lakes and groves of tall pines. In six and a half miles farther, progress up the 
stream was prevented by dense pine woods. An old Indian trail afforded an easy road to the 
river; and, descending three terraces or plateaux, we found ourselves on a level with the water, 
in a bottom of some thirty acres in extent, among tall cotton-w'ood and poplars, of a scattering 
growth, and most luxuriant grass. Wishing to determine the latitude of this point and collect 
specimens, I shall encamp here for one or two day6. Despatched Monroe to hunt, and the men 
to fish, and went myself to collect specimens. A few new flowers were obtained, but the majority 
of those seen are the same as previously collected. No game was killed, but the men caught 
several dozen of fine brook trout, many of them being eighteen inches in length. 
May 24.—Morning clear and warm. The Marias river comes through a gap in the mountains 
some fifteen miles in width. The country is hilly and densely timbered with pine, but the soil is 
rich even on the highest hills. There are, however, many grassy openings or small prairies, from 
one to ten acres in extent. From a peak of the mountains next below the highest range I ob¬ 
tained a good view of the course of the river, and found that it runs northeast, whilst Mr. Tink- 
ham’s survey makes its course south-east. His description and topography of the pass and 
mountains do not agree with the reality, and it would certainly seem as though he could not 
have passed through here. Farther, directly up the main stream, is impracticable; but this 
wide depression, and no mountains to be seen in the west, would seem to indicate the existence 
of a favorable pass on some one of its branches. 
A sextant observation at noon gives for the latitude of our camp 48° 20' 59", which is more 
