518 
FROM FORT BENTON TO LATITUDE 49 ° 30 '. 
than twenty miles south of the location given this liver Mr Tinkham. No game was killed 
to-day, but we have an abundant supply of trout. 
May 25.—This morning found that the horses had taken a stampede, and crossed the river in 
the night; and, as none of my men can swim, I am compelled to cross the river myself and bring 
them back. In returning they evinced much sagacity in selecting a place where it was just possible 
to fold. Packed up, ciossed safely, and, passing over a high level prairie, in two and a quarter 
miles were brought to a stand by the large fork noticed as coming in at our first camp on the 
Marias. 
This stream here, and below to its mouth, is completely hemmed in by banks of perpendicular 
rock, from 100 to 300 feet in height, and is, at this stage of water, swift and deep. Found it 
impossible to cross, or even to get down to it with the pack-animals. I therefore directed my 
men to encamp at a small lake surrounded by groves of poplars, while I took Monroe and went 
up the river to find a ford. Passing through dense pine woods for three miles, came to where 
this branch forks. The left-hand fork flows through a fine valley, and no mountains are visible 
in the west. This is the proper route through the Marias Pass, as is evidenced by the fact that 
an old lodge trail passes up this branch, and it must have been considerably used by the Koote- 
naies and Flatheads thirty or fifty years since. This spot was also once a favorite camping and 
hunting ground of the Blackfeet; but they seldom visit it now—perhaps no more than a dozen 
lodges in the course of a year, for the purpose of hunting elk and moose. The pass is seldom 
or never used by the Blackfeet. My interpreter informs ine that the Indian who came as Mr. 
Tinkham’s guide from St. Mary’s said, that after reaching Fort Benton they came through the 
pass at Cut Bank river, a branch of the Marias twenty-five miles north of this, and thus my 
conjectures that Mr. T. could never have seen the Marias Pass are confirmed. 
May 26.—Killed two geese this morning; and they are in good time, as we are destitute of 
meat. Passed up this stream, which I have named “Rocky fork,” and crossed it just above a 
cascade of ten feet. Our course then lay over a rolling prairie, with many small lakes sur¬ 
rounded by poplar thickets. Soil, rich loam. Crossed another fine creek, and in seven miles 
came to another large fork, too deep to ford where we struck it. Travelled up the stream, 
following an old Indian road cut out through a dense pine forest, which led to a tolerable ford. 
At \h. 40m. p m. there was a total eclipse of the sun, which terminated at 3 h. 20m. p. m. 
Encamped at the river crossing. 
May 27.—Last night there was a heavy frost, and the morning is cold. Our course lay close 
to the base of the mountains, which are becoming more rugged in character, loftier, and covered 
with snow three hundred feet below their summits. The country is considerably broken by high 
hills and narrow valleys of spring-brooks filled with thickets of poplar and willow, and flooded by 
beaver dams. In twelve miles came to a fine stream, which is a branch of Cut Bank river; and 
in sixteen miles reached the Cut Bank itself, the most northerly fork of Marias river. It is a 
rapid stream, filty feet wide, and flows through a rich valley. Its banks are of yellow clay and 
marl, in some places perpendicular, but generally low and sloping. Upon the headwaters of 
this stream is the pass through which Mr. Tinkham came from St. Mary’s, and his report renders 
any further examination unnecessary. A broad lodge trail leads up the valley, indicating that 
the pass is considerably used—probably by the Pend d’Oreilles and Kootenaies, who come 
through to hunt buffalo. Crossed at a good ford ; pushed on over a range of high hills, and 
encamped on a small stream, eight miles from Cut Bank river, and which is no doubt one of the 
sources of Milk river. A .cold northwest wind blew violently during the afternoon, and it is 
snowing in the mountains. 
May 23.—Morning cold, and the hills are white with snow. The country is quite flat, and full 
of spiings and spring-brooks, which ar,e the sources of Milk river. On our left is a heavy forest 
of pine timber fifteen miles in length, and extending into the plain eight miles from the base of 
the mountains. Immediately after passing this point, we obtained a view of the chief of King 
