LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 
G21 
tribes in that vicinity, and to acquaint myself with the harbors of the sound with reference to the 
termination of the railroad line. I was agreeably impressed with Elliott’s bay, on which are the 
flourishing towns of Seattle and Alki, and I agree entirely with Captain McClellan, in the opinion 
that it is the best harbor of the sound, and unless the approach to it from the pass should, on a 
more minute examination, prove less favorable than to some other point, and which is hardly 
to be expected, that it is the proper terminus of the railroad. During my stay at Seattle, two 
sailing-vessels arrived directly from San Francisco, only six days from that port. A more com¬ 
plete report will be forwarded as soon as the proper data can be obtained. 
I have now the honor to report that an express messenger reached this place this morning, 
bearing despatches from Mr. Tinkham, dated Wallah-Wallah, January 2, 1854, stating that, in 
accordance with my instructions, he had fitted out his party for the crossing of the Cascade 
mountains to this point, through the Snoqualme Pass. He was to leave on the 3d of January, 
and has consequently been out twenty-eight days, and may daily be expected to reach us. Mr. 
Tinkham had had an adventurous trip since our separation in the St. Mary’s valley. Leaving 
us at that point, he crossed the rocky mountains through the Marias Pass, between October 7th 
and 28th. He found that this line involved a tunnel of two miles, and high grades for a railroad, 
and for a wagon road he deems it impracticable. He encountered no snow of consequence, and 
after a short stay at Fort Benton, where he found everything pertaining to the post established at 
that point in charge of James Doty, Esq., in excellent condition, he recrossed the mountains for 
the third time within six weeks, taking a new trail, intermediate between the Hell Gate and Black- 
foot passes, the ones taken respectively by Lieutenant Mullan and the main train. This pass he 
found entirely practicable for wagons even at this moment. The dividing ridge is a mere hill, 
its summit but six thousand feet (6,000) above the level of the sea, and so easy of ascent that in 
ascending to the summit they were enabled to keep a trot, though the road was slippery in con¬ 
sequence of a large camp of Pend d’Oreille Indians having preceded them. A portion of this 
band they passed in the ascent, and afterwards accompanied them through the entire pass. 
They were returning from the buffalo hunt, and heavily laden with meat. A copy of Mr. Tink- 
ham’s report, which was written rather hastily at Wallah-Wallah, is herewith enclosed; and I beg 
leave to call your attention to the extraordinary energy he has shown, not only in his crossings of 
the Rocky mountains, but when, on the southern Nez Perces trail between St. Mary’s and Wallah- 
Wallah, he afterwards encountered deep snows, which compelled him to send his animals back 
to St. Mary’s and to travel on snow-shoes, each man with a pack of from fifty to seventy pounds 
on his back. They thus made the entire crossing of the Bitter Root mountains in fifteen days, 
and then, issuing out upon the prairies, they found but little snow, and at the house of an Ameri¬ 
can settler which lay in their route they were enabled to procure horses, with which they pro¬ 
ceeded to Wallah-Wallah. On his arrival here, which, as J have before mentioned, is anticipated 
at any moment, he will have completed a most hazardous and adventurous trip, deserving of the 
highest praise. At Wallah-Wallah Mr. Tinkham found my instructions to pursue the route through 
the Snoqualme Pass, and a copy of these instructions are enclosed herewith. 
Mr. Tinkham brought a report from Mr. Doty, who was entering finely upon the field before 
him. Lieutenant Grover had not returned from his survey of the Missouri between the falls of 
the Missouri and Fort Union. From Mr. Tinkham’s good success in getting through the snow in 
the Bitter Root mountains, I am relieved of all apprehension I might have entertained as to the 
success of Lieutenant Grover, who will set out fully equipped for his adventurous journey. 
Mr. Tinkham also brought reports from Lieutenant Mullan, and a copy of a report of a reconnais¬ 
sance made by him to the headwaters of the Jefferson’s fork of the Missouri is herewith enclosed. 
At the time of Mr. Tinkham’s leaving the valley, he had established a winter camp, fourteen 
miles from Fort Owen, up the St. Mary’s valley, and he was employing his men in the erection of 
four log-houses, the expense of which will not exceed twenty-five dollars for all. If the opera- 
