LETTER OF A. W. TINKHAJtf. 
625 
Fort Wallah-Wall ah, 
January 2, 1854. 
Dear Sir: Your express reached me very opportunely. I arrived here Friday evening, De¬ 
cember 30, and McIntosh came in the next day. Acting under instructions delivered in St. Ma¬ 
ry’s valley, I had already made my preparations, and two days later I should probably have been 
again moving westward. I should, however, as formerly directed, have taken the route pursued 
by the emigrants, and crossed the Cascade range by the Nahchess Pass. 
A brief note about my movements since leaving you in St. Mary’s valley. Winding along the 
hills edging upon the western border of Flathead lake, and tracing first the main stream of Clark’s 
fork, and then its northeastern fork till this stream ran out, we attained the summit of Marias Pass 
on the 20th of October, without snow, but with the snow flying in the air as we crossed. Camp¬ 
ing in the valley, immediately under the mountains, on the eastern side, that night it commenced 
snowing, and from that time until we made our third passage of the Rocky mountains the weather 
was generally cold and snowy. 
The pass I find to be impracticable as a wagon route, and available for a railroad only with 
high grades, for about twenty-five miles, and with a tunnel of at least two miles in length, the 
mountain work being also generally rock cutting. The height of the pass is about 7,500 feet. 
The long approach to the summit led me to hope for a better result. Descending on the eastern 
slopes the next day after the passage, we attained the prairies soon after noon, while our time 
from Flathead lake to the summit was about a week. On the plains the temperature was quite 
low during the week that we were getting to Fort Benton, moderating as we approached the 
Missouri, but for the most of the time rating in the morning as low as 3° to 5° above zero 
F ahrenheit. 
Two mules were left on the plains before we could get to the fort. At the fort there was no 
snow. We arrived there on the 28th day of October, having had a longer trip than was antici¬ 
pated, with animals a good deal tired, and out of provisions. The Piegan bojq acting as guide 
to Lander, was left at the fort. I found Mr. Doty almost destitute of serviceable animals, having 
just despatched the best of his stock to Lieutenant Grover. Some dozen or thirteen animals, 
including three government animals, had also just been stolen by the Indians, so that from Mr. 
Doty I was unable to obtain more than five animals which proved of use to me. Of the stolen 
animals I learned more subsequently, which will be referred to in my report. 
The last day of October we crossed the Missouri just below the fort, and the day being well 
spent, encamped soon after on a small tributary, just hid from the main river by the high banks 
rising on either side of the river in that vicinity. That night it commenced snowing again, and 
so continued during a great portion of the time, until we were on the western side of the mount¬ 
ains. The passage of the mountains was made by the trail used by the Flatheads in going to 
and from the buffalo ground, lies between Cadotte’s Pass and the pass traversed by Lieutenant 
Mullan, and descends into the plains by Hell Gate fork, intersecting Lieutenant Mullan’s route 
some two or three da} r s after passing the summit. This is the trail almost always used by the 
Flatheads; and knowing no such stream as Jefferson’s fork, our guide supposed, and probably 
will always suppose, that, as directed by you, he carried us through the great Flathead trail at 
the head of Jefferson’s fork, this being the principal trail used in the buffalo hunt. 
Did I care to undeceive him, it would have been too late when I became convinced that what 
I had already supposed was true. I, however, gave no preference to the examination of the pass 
on the head of Jefferson’s fork, especially as my instructions left me free to the action of my 
judgment, and the cold and snow were urging us forward to as speedy transit of the mountains as 
was possible. November the 10th we made our third passage of the mountains, crossing in com¬ 
pany with a large party of Pend d’Oreilles, and from this time forward our usually lonely march 
was enlivened constantly with the presence of Indians—Pend d’Oreilles, Flatheads, and a few 
Nez Perces—moving forward in common with us, and with their multitude of animals always in 
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