96 
NARRATIVE AND ITINERARY-INDIAN AVAR. 
heard some astounding news. A general Indian war had broken out; the Indian agent of 
Washington Territory and several other whites had been murdered ; and Major Haller, with a 
large force of United States troops, had gone to meet the hostile tribes. All the settlers south of 
the Dalles had already fled from their ranchos, except Mr. Evelyn, and he had sunk his ferry 
boat, and was about to follow them the next morning. The situation of our little half-armed 
party, consisting of only seventeen men, now that Dr. Newberry was about to leave us, was any¬ 
thing hut enviable. Encumbered with a large number of jaded animals and considerable bag¬ 
gage, we suddenly found ourselves among hostile and well-armed Indians, to whom our train 
would render us a tempting prey. A difficult and almost unknown range of mountains, now 
liable at any time to be blocked up with snow, separated us from the Willamette valley. Each of 
the three known passes across it seemed almost impracticable for us; that of the Columbia river, 
on account of the impossibility of obtaining a flat-boat to cross to the northern bank above the 
Cascades, while the war was raging in the immediate vicinity ; and the wagon road, and the 
pack trail north of Mount Hood, on account of the entire absence of grass, which would render 
the loss of a large number of our almost broken down animals inevitable. I had a long conver¬ 
sation with the half-breed about the new pass. He said it was much more level than either of 
the others, and was well supplied with grass, but that the trail was so slight, and had so many 
forks leading to whortleberry patches, that a guide would be absolutely necessary. He positively 
refused to accompany me himself, being, as he said, afraid of the Indians. Feeling very much 
inclined to attempt the exploration of this pass, which, should the description prove true, would 
he very valuable for a wagon road, if not for a railroad, I inquired of Mr. Evelyn whether 
none of the little band of Indians, whose rancheria was near his house, could be trusted as a 
guide. He told me that, although they had not yet joined the hostile tribes, they had stolen 
several of his horses lately, and were growing rather insolent. Still he thought that their old 
chief, named Ivok-kop, might be trusted a little while longer. As Major Haller had mentioned 
this Indian in high terms to me, I resolved to see him. To my surprise, he said that he knew 
nothing of this pass, .and had never heard of it. This threw discredit upon the whole story, 
especially as half-breeds are noted for their strong imaginations. It was now evening. To 
guard against any sudden attack, I had the animals carefully tied to a strong fence; and 
dividing the night into three watches, took one myself and gave one to each of the men. It was 
very dark and cloudy, with occasionally a few drops of rain, and I could not but feel that our 
prospects were rather gloomy. 
October 4.—This morning Ivok-kop informed me that he had found a young man of his tribe 
who had been through this pass, and who would go as guide. As our chance of getting safely 
through the mountains with our animals, except by steamboat, which my instructions expressly 
forbade, was nearly desperate, I decided to trust him, and gratify my desire of exploring the 
pass. After the long and ceremonious council which Indians always require on great occasions, 
I succeeded in hiring the young man, on reasonable terms ; or rather in bargaining with his 
chief for him, as he himself had no voice in the matter. The interview terminated by Kok-kop 
giving him strict orders to be obedient to me, and by my presenting Kok-kop with a red silk 
handkerchief. 
Leaving Dr. Newberry to go to the Dalles with Mr. Evelyn, we returned to the rest of the party, 
with the new guide whose name was Sam An-ax-shat. He was about eighteen years old, and 
a very intelligent, neat, and, as the result proved, trustworthy Indian. For natural intelligence, 
he would compare very favorably with most white men. He spoke no English, but, fortunately, 
