140 
TREES AS GOOD CITIZENS 
wanted. For the removal of an entire branch, the cut 
should be right at the remaining limb—so close that not 
even a slight stub remains. The cut should be cleanly 
made and should leave no ragged edge to delay healing. 
Any sharp knife may be used but a pruning knife is 
desirable and may be obtained at a hardware store. 
Pruning shears are clumsy for this delicate work and are 
apt to cause bruises on the young and tender tree. The 
pruning is more easily done before the tree is placed in its 
planting hole. 
Sometimes it will be found that with very warm 
weather immediately after planting the leaves which 
develop will wither and droop. This usually indicates 
that the growth of the top has been more rapid than can 
be supported by the transplanted roots, and additional 
pruning is needed to prevent the death of the tree. In 
this secondary pruning up to three fourths of the top 
may be removed, even though this reduces the tree to the 
semblance of a bean-pole. It is better to take this step 
than to have the tree die. After the roots have become 
established, the formation of the top will take care of 
itself. 
After planting, the tree should have annual pruning. 
Symmetrical formation of the top cannot be otherwise 
secured. As the tree grows it will be found that for 
graceful appearance certain branches must be held 
in check, while others must be coaxed into full develop¬ 
ment. The amount of light reaching a tree is an important 
factor in developing the crown. The strongest growth of 
branches is in the direction of the strongest light, and 
this must have consideration in pruning for development. 
It is well to remember, in planting as well as in pruning, 
that such part of a tree as may be shut off from the light 
can not have vigorous growth. 
