PRUNING SHADE TREES 
141 
The yearly pruning calls for the removal of all crossing 
branches and all branches not so located as to aid in the 
formation of a well-shaped crown. If the tree has a 
tendency to form too dense a top, some of the inner 
branches should be removed. As a guide to this removal 
it must be borne in mind that too much shade is as bad 
as not enough. The top should not be allowed to grow 
to a density that will shut off light from nearby houses, 
nor prevent some sunshine from reaching the ground 
underneath the tree, nor should it interfere with the free 
circulation of air. It is important that this pruning be 
done early in the life of the tree, so that it may be accom¬ 
plished with a knife. To wait until later, when a saw 
must be used, involves larger wounds and slower process 
of healing. 
The total of such pruning on a normal healthy tree 
will be very slight, not averaging more than a cut or two 
per tree per year, most trees going for several years 
without needing a cut, but nevertheless they should have 
an annual inspection with sharp pruning tools in hand. 
Where two branches form a sharp fork, that is, if they 
almost parallel each other, one of them should be removed. 
If both are allowed to grow there will be danger of split¬ 
ting. No two branches or twigs should touch each 
other. Where there is such contact one should be cut off. 
If there is a tendency toward the formation of more than 
one main stem, or trunk, the pruning should remove or 
shorten all but the central stem in order to concentrate 
the growth in this main leader. If the upper part of the 
stem tends to bend downward, a short length of bamboo 
or small pole of other light, strong material, tied to the 
stem, will hold it in upright position. All shoots which 
develop along the trunk and the lower portions of the 
branches should be removed. 
