PRUNING SHADE TREES 
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cutting off larger limbs, the first sawing should be from 
the under side, at a distance of 10 or 12 inches from 
the base of the limb. This cut should extend about half¬ 
way through or until the saw pinches too badly. This 
should be followed by a cut from the upper side, a few 
inches farther out. The under cut prevents the split, 
which is bound to occur when the limb falls, from running 
back to the base of the limb and tearing the bark at the 
juncture with the parent stem. After the limb has been 
removed in this way, the stub may be sawed off at the 
trunk or parent stem without danger of splitting. In 
the case of a very large limb, the part to be removed should 
be supported from above by the use of ropes to prevent 
it from falling and doing damage to branches beneath. 
Pruning may be done at almost any season, except 
when the sap is running in the spring. To prune in the 
spring will result in “bleeding,” or loss of sap. This is 
never fatal and it is questionable if it is often seriously 
injurious, except to the nerves of sympathetic observers. 
The most rapid healing will probably take place following 
late spring or early summer pruning, when the tree is in 
full growth. The slowest healing probably takes place 
following August cuts. Fall or winter are. favorable 
seasons because of the absence of foliage, which gives a 
perfect view of the inner branches of the tree’s framework, 
and because, being a relatively leisure time, the work might 
be more thoroughly and carefully done. 
The tools required for pruning increase in number with 
the growth of the tree. For the first pruning a sharp 
knife is the one tool necessary, and is best whenever it can 
be used. In subsequent work a pair of pruning shears will 
be found useful. Many of these shears have a single blade 
which works against a shoulder applied to the branch. 
The pressure of the shoulder to the branch should always 
