EXPLORATION OF MOHAVE TO SODA LAKE. 
31 
arrived at, that from this point there was no chance of proceeding to the southeast, and that 
we must, to attain our object, follow the river till an available point to leave it in the desired 
direction should he found. I detailed Lieutenant Parke to ascend the river, to endeavor to find 
a practicable pass at the source of one of its branches, while I should descend it for a similar 
purpose ; and, as the services of Mr. Smith, on this survey, could be dispensed with, he was 
given a party, with the spring-wagon, to make a survey of the New Pass, examine the country 
lying between it and the Cajon Pass, and after a survey of this latter to return to camp. It 
was estimated that Lieutenant Parke and myself would be absent ten days, while Mr. Smith 
would require a few days lopger to accomplish his surveys. Lieutenant Stoneman, with the 
escort, was to remain in camp. 
I started with a very small party, on the 23d, down the river. At Depot camp it was a 
broad, shallow stream, abundantly wooded, and its bottom confined by terraces on either bank, 
from one to three miles apart. The water, howevpr, soon sank in the sandy bed, reappearing 
generally at a point of rocks, or a contraction of the stream. The timber followed the direction 
of the water, and generally disappeared with it. 
After descending about twenty-four miles, I made one of my camps at a rocky point where 
the water flowed freely, but only for a short distance. Here, the course of the river not being 
discernible, I was in doubt whether to follow the wagon-road, which I had no reason to suppose 
would leave water, or to go through an opening more to the south. There was but little choice 
between the two, and finally I determined to take the road. After travelling ten or twelve 
miles, I discovered that neither of the courses was the correct one, but that the river flowed 
through a canon in the intermediate hills. Returning, I made camp at a place on the river 
conveniently situated, from which to make a reconnaissance of the southernmost opening. 
As there was little chance of finding water after leaving the river, I took with me a pack- 
mule, carrying two ten-gallon kegs of water, by which means I was able to go thirty or forty 
miles and return. I started early, with two men, leaving the other two in camp, and proceeded 
in the direction of a high peak in a ridge ahead, which ridge seemed to terminate the opening. 
As we advanced, however, we found this to be a mere spur, extending into the opening, and not 
closing it. About sunset, I fortunately found a little dry grass, and being at the foot of the 
ridge, I made camp. As, by ascending the peak, I would be able to see a great distance in 
every direction, whereas my provisions would not allow of following the opening, I resolved to 
attempt its ascent, and, starting very early, succeeded in gaining its summit by daylight. Here 
I had an extended view. There were ranges of hills and mountains on all sides, which seemed 
to have no uniformity of direction. In a direction south, 25° east, the hills seemed to be more 
distant and lower. They looked white, like sand-hills, and were about twenty miles off. I could 
form a pretty good idea of this distance, as I could compare it with the distance from camp, 
both places being visible from where I stood. The direction of these low hills is about the same 
as that of the mouth of the Gila, which was distant 175 miles, and the nearest point of the 
Colorado river 125 miles. 
I arrived at noon where I had left the men, and, having given our animals the last of the 
water, we turned our faces towards camp, where we arrived late at night. 
About midway between the peak and camp was a singular isolated hill about 300 feet high. 
It was composed of very black volcanic rock, and its form that of a very symmetrical truncated 
cone, surrounded at its base by a circular horizontal bed of the same rock, the cone being in the 
centre. This bed was between two and three miles in diameter, its edges well marked, and 
5 C 
