18 EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT. 
(“ Pah-Utah”) nation, but live separate and distinct from the mountain robbers, whom we 
shall have occasion again to mention. This band contains probably two hundred warriors— 
short, but robust and well formed, with regular features, and a pleasing air of activity and 
intelligence. They received us kindly, and flooded our camp with a portion of the surplus 
produce of their fields for trade. The principal articles of traffic were beans, squashes, maize, 
and wheat—the latter usually ground to flour. Although the season was the latter part of 
February, when their winter’s store had been consumed and the quantity for seed reserved, still 
the supply seemed limited only by the demand. Their villages were mostly upon the west bank 
of the river, and covered considerable space ; yet of the fertile soil thus occupied not one acre 
in a hundred seemed cultivated. 
We were now met by Mojaves, who, acting as guides around the next spur that formed a 
canon, conducted the surveying party through a pass, invisible from the river, where not a hill 
intervened. 
We now entered that great basin of the Colorado, several miles in width, and probably forty 
miles in length, which for ages—since the first visit of the Spaniards—has been the home of 
the Mojave trihe. 
Successively, as we approached their several villages, five principal chiefs, each with his own 
particular band of warriors, met us in state, with all the forms and ceremonies with which they 
are wont to dignify great events. When informed of the object of our visit they were greatly 
pleased. They met in council, and determined to do all in their power to advance the interests 
of the Pacific railway survey. 
They loaded us with provisions of flour and beans in return for cast-off clothing, and sent two 
guides, Ir-i-te-ba and Cai-rook, to conduct us to the intersection of the Salt Lake road with 
Mojave river. 
The valley of the Rio Colorado forms a distinguishing feature in the topography of the western 
portion of the continent. It is the recipient of all the waters that drain the basin between the 
Sierra Madre and Sierra Nevada, or coast range, and extends, from its sources in the Rocky 
Mountains, to the Gulf of California. This region abounds in barren hills, naked plains, and 
wild canons ; yet it has frequent fertile spots, where water and timber are plenty, and where 
valleys of considerable extent have narrow belts of fertile soil. As instances, we may mention 
Rio Gila, Colorado Chiquito, Bill Williams’ fork, and Rio Mojave. All contain, to a greater 
or less extent, soil favorable to agriculture. The southern bank of the Rio Gila, lately acquired 
by treaty from Mexico, contains large tracts of land capable of being irrigated and of producing 
excellent crops. Pimo Indians from time immemorial—certainly since they were first visited 
by Coronado, in 1540—have cultivated cotton of excellent quality. Specimens, which I showed 
to gentlemen in Texas, were pronounced nearly equal to the best Sea Island cotton of South 
Carolina. Tobacco, maize, wheat, beans, and melons, are also cultivated by Pimos and Mari- 
copas upon the Gila. The soil upon all the rivers above mentioned would, doubtless, produce 
similar crops. 
But the valley of Rio Colorado itself affords a large extent of fertile bottom-land, which may 
be perfectly irrigated and easily cultivated. The soil is pronounced to be far superior to that 
of the Del Norte, and being elevated at the Mojave only three hundred and fifty feet 
above the sea, the climate is milder and more tropical. As the Mojaves, Chemehuevis, 
Cuchans, and Cocopas, all cultivate without irrigation, it is probable that more rain falls here 
than in New Mexico. Judging from our own experience, and the robust health and fine per¬ 
sonal appearance of all the Colorado Indians, no climate could be more salubrious. There are 
probably from one hundred and fifty to two hundred square miles of arable land in one tract 
occupied by Mojaves. The Chemehuevis, a band of Pai-utes, possess a tract of about thirty 
square miles. Below, near the junction of Bill Williams’ fork, is a basin containing about 
thirty square miles. Thence, to within a short distance of the mouth of Rio Gila, I have no 
personal knowledge. The map of Captain Sitgreaves indicates an extensive valley there, not less 
