EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT. 19 
than eighty miles long, and averaging, at least, five miles in width, making four hundred square 
miles. It is occupied by three hands of Indians—“ Yampais,” “Cu-chans,” and “ Mojaves.” 
From ten to fifteen miles above the junction of Rio Gila to the mouth of Rio Colorado is a wide 
strip of bottom-land, averaging, for ninety or a hundred miles, from ten to fifteen miles in width, 
giving at least one thousand square miles. Looking from the desert south, an extensive tract of 
country, from fifty to sixty miles in width, appears the bed of an ancient lake, now possessing a 
fertile soil, and capable of irrigation from the Colorado. Without this last, we have already 
estimated sixteen hundred and sixty square miles of arable land upon the Colorado. Beside 
maize, wheat, beans and melons, which, without irrigation, Indians now cultivate so abundantly, 
the soil and climate are remarkably adapted to the cultivation of cotton, sugar-cane, and rice. 
There can be no doubt that the valley of the Colorado is destined, at some future day, to be 
divided into plantations, supporting a numerous population. 
The river itself is worthy of some consideration. From the Mojave villages to near its 
confluence with the gulf, the average width of the stream is from three hundred to five hundred 
yards. When at the junction of the Gila with the Colorado, in October and November, 1849, 
no change was apparent in the height of the stream ; this is the dryest season of the year, and 
no ford was known upon the river. From the mouth of Bill Williams’ fork to Mojave villages, 
no place occurred where the depth of the channel was less than five or six feet. The current is 
rapid, but apparently not more so than that of the Ohio. The height, at the confluence of Bill 
Williams’ fork, is two hundred and seventy feet above the level of the sea; distant, by course of 
the river, three hundred miles. This estimate would give an average inclination to the stream 
of nine-tenths of a foot per mile, slightly exceeding that of the navigable waters of the Arkansas. 
Steamboats navigate already as high as the mouth of Rio Gila, eighty miles from the Gulf, 
furnishing supplies to Fort Yuma. Captain Sitgreaves states that, at his camp No. 51, a large 
rock occupies the middle of the channel. This is supposed to be the principal bar to the navi¬ 
gation of this river to the Mojave villages. The rock could be removed by blasting; and then, 
should the railroad follow the route that has been indicated, this navigable river would bear to 
and from the Mojave depot commerce of no inconsiderable value. 
About forty miles above the junction of Bill Williams’ fork we left the Colorado at the mouth 
of a dry arroyo, heretofore supposed to be the bed of Rio Mojave. Gradually ascending the 
barren slope of the hill-side ten miles from the Colorado, we found several small springs of good 
water. Twenty miles beyond, we encamped upon a pretty rivulet, which watered a small valley 
that had been converted by the mountain Pai-utes into a luxuriant garden. Passing the crest 
of a hill, and leaving to our right the wide valley supposed to belong to Mojave river, by a 
gradual ascent over wide prairies of rich grama grass, we reached a rocky glen, where were springs 
abounding in excellent water. No timber was here, although low cedars afforded plenty of fuel. 
From Rock spring, five miles led us to the summit, fifty miles beyond and 5,292 feet above 
Rio Colorado ; the grades, however, by detours upon the ascending slopes, need not exceed 
seventy feet per mile. 
We then passed into a dry ravine leading to Soda lake, which seems to absorb the waters of 
Rio Mojave. Turning from the valley of the ravine referred to, we ascended the hill-side, where, 
nineteen miles from Rock spring, were oozing, from an outcrop of marl, small rills of water. 
Should deep holes be dug, or tanks be constructed at this place, an abundant supply of water 
might doubtless be obtained. 
The vegetation of this region consists of beautiful palm-like yuccas, cactaceas, larrea, and 
patches of grass. From “ Marl Springs ” we ascended the mountain, to cut off a detour made 
by the surveying party, through a fine looking valley to our left. Crossing granitic hills, we 
soon saw upon our right a row of volcanic buttes and metamorphic mountains, beyond which 
appeared a deep and wide valley, probably that of the veritable Mojave. 
In the far horizon north is seen a snow-white peak, said to be on Rio Virgin, or Santa Clara. 
Northwest, stands in high relief the lofty range of the Sierra Nevada, between which and Rio 
Colorado have been counted nine distinct ranges of mountains. 
