46 
SAN DOMINGO.—SAN FELIPE. 
to the barometer, the bed of the stream was here about one thousand feet below the village of 
that name. The channel is sandy, and several hundred feet wide, evidently hearing much 
water at certain seasons. The flowing stream is now only a few feet in width ; but is said to 
feed the acequia that irrigates the cornfields, gardens, and vineyards of the Indian pueblo of 
San Domingo, which lies below the junction of the two rivers. This pueblo bears a strong 
contrast to Mexican towns; exhibiting, at a distance, considerable architectural effect. A good 
description of it is given by Lieut. Abert in his report on New Mexico. As we entered, an 
Indian came forward and offered us the hospitalities of his house ; supper and a bed; and showed 
us fields where he said our mules could graze under their protection. Such hospitality is not 
uncommon among them. We encamped, and received a visit of welcome from the governor and 
numbers of his people ; and afterwards returned some of their calls; having to climb ladders to 
obtain access to our friends’ houses. They received us with great civility, generally offering us 
tortillas and melons to eat. We then visited the estufa. The building stands in an isolated 
spot, and in form is cylindrical, with a flat roof. Mounting to the top by means of a ladder, we 
then descended through a hole to a circular room some 30 feet in diameter. A fire-place with 
expiring embers, a candlestick, and something like a censer, were the principal contents. It is 
used as a council chamber, and for dancing ; and here are performed all the mystical rites of 
their religion. To the simplicity of the estufa, the church offered a strong contrast. The 
massive doors were emblazoned with armorial bearings. The ■viigas of the roof were carved and 
gaudily painted. Above and around the altar were images of saints—some of fair proportions, 
others of Lilliputian dimensions, but in very good preservation. There were paintings of 
various degrees of merit. On many the hand of time had made severe ravages. The canvass 
had decayed, and the figures had faded into faint and undefined shapes. Under a fair name 
they would doubtless sell for a good price in the New York market. The most curious object 
noticed was an ox-skin banner, apparently very old,‘and painted to represent, in profile, a singu¬ 
lar figure; with buckler and shield, visor, lance, and sword, complete; riding at full speed 
over prostrate warriors, whose upturned faces expressed great consternation. Below, somewhat 
defaced, was an inscription, but the governor hurried us away before we had time to copy it. 
October 4.—We bade adieu to our hospitable friends, and after travelling a league had passed 
Covero, and were in front of the Indian pueblo of San Felipe. Standing upon the opposite 
bank of the river, it presented a pretty appearance ; but we did not cross over to examine it. 
The church with two towers, and houses surrounded by fruit-trees, were similar to those of San 
Domingo. At this po'.ut, bluffs of diluvial drift approach the river on both sides, and were 
formerly united by a bridge. Upon the west bank a mesa, two hundred feet high, with a pre¬ 
cipitous front, bounds the valley, and overhangs a lesser plateau, upon which the town is built. 
Thence it seems to extend south, nearly to the Jemez valley. On the eastern side a similar form¬ 
ation, coming down from the mountains, is broken into gravel-hills, and gradually diminishes 
to a spur which juts into the valley at a height of about fifty feet above the river, which here 
flows over a rocky bottom, good for foundations. There would be no difficulty, therefore, in 
selecting a route for a railroad from some point in the Galisteo valley to this place, crossing to 
San Felipe, and thence proceeding along the foot of the bluffs southwest to the river Jemez. 
Following the left bank of Bio del Norte, or. Rio Grande, as it is now generally called by 
Americans, we passed Algodones, a small Mexican town, and thence, through Bernardillo, cele¬ 
brated for the excellent wine produced from its vineyards, to the Indian pueblo of Zandia, near 
which we encamped. A crowd of good-natured Indians soon appeared, offering for sale fruit 
and poultry at an extravagant price that would have astonished a Jew. But if they were hard 
at a bargain, they were honest and kind-hearted. 
October 5 — Albuquerque— Took the upper road along the edge of the gravel hills, leaving the 
wide valley and numerous ranchos to the right. Ten or twelve miles from Zandia we entered 
the town of Albuquerque. The white wagons and tents of our advanced party were nearly as 
conspicuous as the village itself, and we drove towards them to meet our companions. All had 
