CHAPTER VIII. 
From Pueblo de la Laguna to Zuni. 
Covero.—Navajo depredations.—Disturbance at a fandango.—Mount Taylor.—Hay Camp.—Lava bed.—Division of party.— 
Camino del Obispo.—Forests of Sierra Madre.—Agua Fria.—Acoma Indians.—-Summit of Sierra Madre.—Inscription Dock.— 
Ojo Pescado.—Ancient ruins.—Coal.—Rio de Zuni.—Sacred spring.—Visit to Zuni.—Smallpox.—Caciques.—System of govern¬ 
ment.—White Indians.—Party from Fort Defiance.—Campbell’s Pass.—Tradition of the flood.—Visit to Old Zuni.—Sacred 
altar.—Arch spring. 
November 14— Camp 64.—Lieut. Ives’ party overtook us soon after starting this morning, 
and we proceeded together for twelve miles from Laguna westwardly—the general course of 
the valley of San Jose—till opposite Covero. Then, leaving the river-side, we turned north 
two and a half miles to the town, where we encamped. The valley of the river was, however, 
examined some miles farther, to the point where the Zuni road again strikes it. The detour hy 
Covero appears to have heen made for the convenience of the inhabitants, rather than of those 
travelling towards the west; hut the road is so fine that the increased distance is not complained 
of. Most of the valley along our route is cultivated hy Pueblo Indians. The stream, as we 
ascended, bore a greater volume of water ; forming lagunas, and fertilizing some very broad 
bottoms. Covero is within one of the valleys that lead from San Mateo or Mount Taylor to 
Rio San Jose. It is a Mexican town, containing about sixty families, and is situated upon a 
sandstone ledge, on one side of which is a narrow fissure, from whence gushes a rill of clear 
cold water. Below this trickling stream are small cavities in the rock, from which the town 
draws its supply. By the side of the fountain stands a singular column of sandstone, from 
twelve to fifteen feet high, somewhat in the form of an urn, with a hole worn at its base so as 
to admit of a passage through it. 
This being a frontier Mexican settlement, the people have suffered greatly from incursions of 
the Navajoes.* Occasionally they have heen driven from their village to take refuge among the 
neighboring cliffs, where are defiles and difficult passages favoring both concealment and de¬ 
fence. Many have been taken prisoners by the Indians, and ransomed after years of servitude. 
One of the men showed a Navajo shield, called “chimal,” which he had won as a trophy in 
battle. It was of raw hide, circular, about two feet in diameter, with an image of a demon 
painted upon one side, and bordered with red cloth, the ends of which hung in long streamers 
trimmed with feathers. The Navajoes are not always hostile. They have frequently visited 
the village on friendly terms, and probably the inhabitants, by trade with them, have made as 
much in peace as they have lost in war. It was once the boast of these Indians, that, if they 
desired, they could exterminate the Mexicans ; and that they only spared them to save them¬ 
selves the trouble of cultivating corn and raising sheep. Last night two Navajoes were in our 
camp at Laguna. They were from Caravajal’s band, which is now not far off, and were sup¬ 
posed to have heen sent as spies. This Caravajal seems to be a man of great enterprise and 
cunning. It is said that, formerly, he was accustomed to hover about the settlements, till, see¬ 
ing a fair chance for pillage, he would communicate the fact to some band in the vicinity pre¬ 
pared to improve the opportunity ; and then, turning informer, put the Mexicans upon the trail 
of the plunderers—claiming a reward from both sides. 
The fandango this evening was interrupted by a great disturbance outside. People rushed 
out to see what was the matter. Everybody, as is usual among Mexicans whenever there is 
* Pronounced Xah-vah-hoes. 
