VISIT TO ZUNI.—SMALLPOX.—CACIQUES. 
67 
desired them to furnish us a guide, and such information as might he in their power. He 
listened attentively to the explanations of the object of our expedition, of the general course 
we proposed to follow, and of the requisites necessary to make the exploration satisfactory. 
Then, with dignified reserve, he replied that he would communicate this request to the caciques, 
and afterwards make known their decision upon it. 
November 22 —Camp 70.—Savedra has been sent with a party to explore the route towards 
Moqui, in order to ascertain whether water can he obtained in that direction. He has been in 
that region before and professes to know it well. 
November 23 —Camp 70.—This morning the thermometer at sunrise read 16° Fahrenheit; 
while the sacred spring gave a temperature of 10° Centigrade, equal to 50° Fahrenheit, which 
is probably the mean temperature of the year at this place. In order to learn the oscillations 
of the barometer, and also whether the hourly changes in magnetism are so great as to allow 
them to he read upon the vernier of our instrument, Lieut. Ives has been occupied in making 
a series of meteorological and magnetic observations—a complete set of readings having been 
taken by him once in every fifteen minutes during the last twenty-four hours. 
A small party visited the pueblo to-day. The road p c assed over a ridge, hut we preferred 
keeping along the stream. Threading an opening between rocky bluffs, we passed the rancho 
gardens; and, a few hundred yards below, entered the valley, several miles in width, which 
leads to Zuni. The soil seemed light; but where cultivated, it produces fine crops without the 
aid of irrigation. Hot an acequia was seen ; and an Indian, who accompanied us, said they 
were not resorted to, as sufficient moisture for the fields was derived from rain. Within the 
valley appeared occasionally towers, where herders and laborers watch to prevent a surprise 
from Apaches. Hear the centre of this apparent plain stood, upon an eminence, the compact 
city of Zuni. By its side flowed the river which bears the same name. It is now but a rivulet 
of humble dimensions, though sometimes said to be a large stream. The Zunian was very 
communicative by the way, and pointed out the various places where he had displayed valor in 
skirmishes with Havajoes. Of the ruined pueblo upon the mesa, called by Simpson “old Zuni,” 
he told a tradition which he said had been handed down by the caciques from time immemorial. 
In the most ancient times, (“ tiempo quanto hai,”) their fathers came from the west, and built 
the present town. There they lived till, one “noche triste” at midnight, there came a flood of 
water rolling in from the west. The people fled in terror; some to the mesa, and escaped; the 
rest perished in the deluge. The water rose to near the top of the mesa, and there remained. 
During this time the pueblo was built crowning the hill. To appease the angry spirit that had 
brought this calamity ttpon them, a man and a maid were thrown from the cliff into the sea, 
which then subsided, leaving the individuals sacrificed statues of stone, as they remain to this 
day. The people then returned to the valley.* 
Upon reaching the town of Zuni, a most revolting spectacle met our view. Smallpox had 
been making terrible ravages among the people, and we were soon surrounded by great num¬ 
bers—men, women, and children—exhibiting this loathsome disease in various stages of its 
progress. Passing beneath an arch we entered a court, which they said was consecrated to 
Montezuma dances. This ceremony is described as being of a most singular character. The 
performers dress in costume ; some imitating beasts with horns, all as' wild and fantastic as 
their ideas of the subject of these orgies. The corn-dance also is a very curious annual festival. 
This court was entirely surrounded by houses of several receding stories, which were attained 
by means of ladders leading from one to another. Pointing to a house three stories in height, 
the governor said it was the dwelling of a cacique, where frequently met at night all the 
officers of the government in consultation. The caciques are the chief of these. They are four 
in number, and their offices hereditary. Son succeeds father whenever the latter dies or becomes 
too infirm to perform the duties of his station. These have a general superintendence over all 
that pertains to the public welfare, and have the power of making war and peace. They appoint 
* For further remarks upon Zuni traditions see Indian report 
