68 
GOVERNMENT OF ZUNI.—NORTHERN PASS OF SIERRA MADRE. 
two chief captains, whom they consult upon all occasions : one is the war-chief; the other, a 
sort of superintendent of police. The latter, mixing intimately among the people, selects the 
most active and intelligent, whom he nominates to the caciques for the appointments of governor 
and subordinate officers. Should any one of these prove avaricious and exacting, the people 
complain to the higher powers, and the offender is displaced. The caciques are supreme; 
although deferring upon occasions to the wfill of the people. The present governor, Pedro 
Pino, however, seems to have things pretty much his own way. He is probably the most cun¬ 
ning, if not the most intelligent, among them, and exercises control by an iron will. Ancient 
relics being asked for, they brought us several of the “liachas” (stone axes), such as are fre¬ 
quently found at Chichilticale, and among other ruins. We ascended to the house-tops, 
climbing ladder after ladder, and encountering successive groups of miserable wretches, bearing 
unmistakeable signs of incipient or waning disease. Here were many tamed eagles. They 
are caught in the cliffs when young, and become quite domesticated. The people are not 
willing to part with them. From the top the pueblo reminds one of an immense ant-hill, from 
its similar form and dense population. The number of inhabitants is estimated at 2,000. 
Going down from the outer side into the street, we encountered five stories of descent. There 
are said to be in Zuni white Indians, Avith fair complexions, blue eyes, and light hair. The 
prevalence of the smallpox prevented us from seeing them. A sort of tradition among the 
Hew Mexicans, too vague to be worthy of credence, accounts for this phenomenon, by a story 
that many years ago—centuries perhaps—a company of Welsh miners, with their wives and 
children, emigrated hither ; and that the Zunians killed the men and married the women. 
There is a striking similarity between some of the words of the Zuni language and the English. 
“ Eat-a ” is to eat. “ Eat-on-o-way ” signifies eaten enough. To express admiration of a thing 
they exclaim, “Look ye !” or sometimes “Look ye here !” These facts, known by the Ameri¬ 
cans of the country, are probably the cause of the origin or the revival of the Welsh legend. 
But the Zunians deny that it has any foundation in truth. 
November 24 —Camp 10.—Lieut. Jones and Mr. Campbell have joined us ; having completed 
the reconnaissance through the northern pass of the Sierra Madre to Canon Bonito (Fort 
Defiance), and thence to this place. Mr. Campbell reports the route from Ojo de Gallo—the 
head of Bio San Jose—by the way of Ojo Azul to Ojo del Oso, which empties into Bio Puerco 
of the west, quite favorable for a railroad. Indeed, so gradual was the ascent and descent on 
either side of the pass, not exceeding thirty feet to the mile, that without a careful survey the 
summit might be passed unperceived. Thence to follow Bio Puerco of the west, seemed to him 
perfectly practicable. The only obstacle to apprehend is a scarcity of water upon the surface, 
as the stream soon sinks. Savedra has also returned, reporting that he has found a level route 
to La Jarra, and water at Carriso, thirty miles distant. But the country is covered with such 
dense thickets that much labor will be required to cut a road through them. 
November 25 —Camp 70.—The repair of our wagons is to be completed to-day. A hasty 
report of our operations has been prepared for the department, and a profile of the route from 
Fort Smith to Albuquerque enclosed ; the principal object being to duplicate the work already 
performed ; so that, in case by any unforeseen accident our notes should be lost during the march 
westward, this much may be preserved. 
November 26 —Camp 71.—As the train unwound itself, stretching along in the direction of 
Zuni, some of us cast our eyes wishfully towards the legendary table-land that stood about a league 
upon our left. The Zuni captain, who had promised to conduct us thither, not appearing, Dr. 
Bigelow, Mr. Parke, and myself, determined to go by ourselves and trust to good fortune for 
success in finding the path leading to the top. We took a trail and proceeded two miles south, 
to a deep canon, where were springs of water. Thence, by a zigzag course, we led our mules 
lip to the first bench of the ascent. Here, hollowed from the rock, was an Indian cave, and 
looking down into it, we saw lying in the centre six small birds ranged side by side in two rows. 
As nothing else was visible within the apartment, some superstitious rite was probably being 
