86 
TOPOGRAPHICAL HILL.—BILL WILLIAMS’ MOUNTAIN. 
timber and prairie, and extends from north-northwest to south-southeast. It seems to he a 
well-watered region, and a winter retreat of Indians, for several smokes were seen there. Upon 
the slopes of the hills we find in the vegetation an agreeable change from that of the higher 
country we have left. Agave Mexicana is quite abundant. It is the beautiful American aloe, 
or Century plant, called in this country mezcal. The Apaches roast it for food; Mexicans dis¬ 
til from it a spirituous liquor. 
The weather is warm, and the snow has nearly disappeared, hut the gravelly soil is every¬ 
where so saturated with moisture as to make travelling difficult. The mules sink in the mire 
at almost every step, half way to their knees. 
The barometer places us a thousand feet helow Leroux’s spring. 
January 3.—A stampede of the mules took place last evening, indicating the approach of 
Indians or wild animals; therefore, although we regained the mulada, the night was passed 
with watchfulness and anxiety lest our neighbors might make another attempt to leave us on 
foot; but we were not again disturbed. 
A mile west from our bivouac No. 4, we ascended a ridge called Topographical hill, where 
we had a view still more extensive than that noted yesterday. We can now trace the great 
valley, as well as the western ridge of mountains which bounds it, far towards the north- 
northwest. A mesa mountain towards the southeast has been named Sierra Tonto. South- 
southwest is Sierra Prieta, with indication of passes upon both sides of it. From thence, 
northerly, extends a range with a snowy peak near the centre. Nearly west is seen “Picacho.” 
Intervening is a low ridge, covered with a dense growth of dark cedars and pinons, which we call 
the “ Black Forest.” This seems to divide the drainage of the valley—one system of streams 
flowing south-southeast to llio Verde; the other towards the west and southwest, probably to 
the Colorado. That upon which we encamped last night belongs to the first system, and there¬ 
fore may not be Bill Williams’ fork, as at first supposed. At all events, it passes far towards 
the south. Our bivouac No. 3 was upon a branch which appeared to flow westerly, more in 
the direction of our route. Therefore, to explore it, we took a course north 10° west, descended 
into the valley, and, after travelling about ten miles, encamped upon a creek where were large 
pools of water. Small alamos and willows cover the banks. Grama-grass is abundant in the 
vicinity. We now seem to be below the region of pines, and of the swebt-berried cedars. Bed 
cedar is, however, abundant; larger and finer than before seen. There are also numerous 
jfihons with esculent nuts, affording food for wild beasts as well as for Indians. We have 
seen to-day black-tailed deer, rabbits, and quails; also foot-prints of many antelope and bears. 
The barometer gives our camp nearly the same altitude as the valley of Bio Colorado Chiquito, 
and of Bio del Norte at Albuquerque. 
January 4.—Proceeding in a generally northwest course, we crossed several arroyos, one of 
which contained deep pools of water; and, after travelling about fifteen miles, encamped near 
the head of a dry ravine, among hills of red sandstone. Volcanic rock, or c< mal pais,” as it is 
appropriately called by Mexicans, has entirely disappeared. Upon our left is a valley leading 
around these hills, and the indications seem favorable there for the passage of the wagon train, 
supposed now to be encamped at New Year’s spring. We therefore ascended the ridge, and 
endeavored to communicate with the main surveying party by preconcerted signals. But hills 
intervened, and prevented our smokes from being seen. 
January 5.—Leaving our dry bivouac, we passed up the valley mentioned, and ascended a 
higher hill to reconnoitre. From that point we had an extensive view in the direction towards 
New Year’s spring, but saw no indication of camp-fires. We then turned eastward, followed 
up a long valley, crossed a low ridge, and from a ravine ascended to the hills, in order to catch, 
if possible, a view of smoke, which might at least direct our course to the train. Soon the forest 
became so dense that, not only could we not see beyond, but could scarcely make our way 
through. At length, having travelled about fifteen miles, we came to the end of the range, 
and saw Bill Williams’ mountain before us. To the east-nortlieast were several volcanic hills, 
