106 
PROGRESS DOWN BILL WILLIAMS FORK. 
arrows were sticking in the top, showing that the Indians, while laboring for food, had fre¬ 
quently amused themselves at archery. 
Having travelled four miles, we entered a narrow chasm, the precipitous walls of which grew 
higher as we proceeded. We therefore despaired of being able to make an exit from its head ; 
and turning, ascended the mountain ridges. Crossing them with much difficulty, at sunset we 
reached our bivouac of February l 7th. Some of the party who explored the chasm to its head, 
found there a spring of cold water; and near by, a cave covered with Indian paintings. Mount¬ 
ain sheep were enjoying this cold retreat; but, frightened at the approach of men, with the fleet¬ 
ness of deer they lied to the mountains and escaped. 
February 10.—We conclude to await here the arrival of Lieutenant Ives with the surveying 
party. Leroux returns to conduct the train through portions of the valley where the reconnais¬ 
sance shows fewer obstructions than by the trail we have followed. Towards evening a shower 
came up, and, to protect ourselves, we built huts of chamisa boughs, after the fashion of an 
Apache village ; and as our provisions were exhausted, we imitated the Indians in another 
respect, and lived upon game—ducks, rabbits, and deer. 
The canons upon this river remind one of the chasms through which the Gila flows among the 
Pinal Lena mountains. That is longer, deeper, more rugged and angular, but the rock is of 
similar metamorphic formation. The Salinas also, according to the accounts of Lieutenant 
Beckwith and Dr. Randall, who tried to follow its course, on their way to Zuni, to the Gila, in 
1849, threads a chasm of the same nature, and is as impassable with pack-mules as that near 
Mount Turnbull. They were obliged to leave the stream, and make their way over high and 
rough mountains. It seems probable, therefore, that the spurs which are broken through by 
Bill Williams’ fork extend in a general east-southeast course, forming one great chain, inter¬ 
sected also by the Rio Verde, Salinas, and Gila. Southeast from the junction of Bill Williams’ 
fork with Rio Santa Maria is a wide, arid-looking prairie, apparently cut into deep arroyos. 
It may extend to the Pima village, cross the Gila, and thence form the Jornada to Tucson. If 
this be not the great valley mentioned by Mr. Aubrey, in his report, none has yet been seen to 
answer his description. 
February 11.—Much rain fell during the day. Towards evening a messenger arrived from the 
train, bringing provisions. The rear party will not reach us until to-morrow, as their mules are 
quite weary from breaking a road through the alternate sand and marsh that cover the banks 
of the river. 
February 12.—Received another message from Lieutenant Ives, stating that, on account of 
the thickets upon the banks, the train was obliged generally to follow the sandy bed of the 
stream, rendering progress slow and fatiguing. He therefore proposed to abandon one or two 
wagons, and thus increase the strength of the remaining teams. Lieutenant Jones and Mr. 
White finding that the surveying party would not overtake us to-night, went back to meet it. 
February 13 —Camp 121.—At 2 p. m. the train arrived, having met with no serious difficulty 
during our absence. The mules, however, from ten days’ successive travel with loaded wagons 
through soft earth or sand, need rest. 
The night is clear, affording an opportunity to observe moon culminations and an occupation 
of Mars. 
February 14 —Camp 121.—To facilitate our movements, as we are already reduced to half 
rations of flour, we decided to leave three of the wagons, and lighten the rest, by abandoning 
such things as could be most easily sjiared. The day has been occupied in making arrange¬ 
ments for this purpose. 
February 15 —Camp 122.—The train and survey followed the valley through the striped 
canon, traversed and described a few days since, while Dr. Bigelow, Mr. Molhausen, and 
myself took an Indian trail, which led through a pass among the hills. On the way the artist 
sketched several singular trees and shrubs, which Dr. Bigelow supposes have never been de¬ 
scribed. Ascending an arroyo, we passed a summit without difficulty, and entered a ravine 
