CHAPTER X Y. 
From the Colorado river to the Mormon road. 
Leaving the Colorado river.—View from the bounding ridge.—Springs.—Pai-Ute creek.—Rock spring.—Division of the party.— 
Marl springs.—Desert.—Soda lake.—Arrival at Lieutenant Ives’ camp.—Mojave river.—Remarks on the Mojave Indians and the 
Colorado valley.—Mexican herder missing.—Statement of the guide in regard to the continuance of the Mojave river to the 
Colorado.—Search for the lost herder.—Pursuit after the Pai-Utes.—Return of the Mojave guides.—Mormon road. 
March 2— Camp 13fi. —Our guide presented himself, according to promise, and we commenced 
the march. No sooner had we left the great valley of the Colorado, and ascended the gravelly 
ridge which bounds it, than, looking hack, we saw a huge column of smoke rising from our late 
camp ; while from point to point, down the river, in rapid succession, the signal was repeated. 
It was probably a telegraphic notice of our departure, extending to the Chemehuevis, and per¬ 
haps to the more distant Yampais. The scene presented from this point was one of the most 
beautiful witnessed upon the route. The river is a noble stream. The valley is wider, more 
fertile, and better wooded than that of the del Norte. Beyond, in a direction south 75° east, 
could plainly be seen the wide opening represented by Captain Sitgreaves, towards the junction of 
Santa Maria with Bill Williams’ fork. If allowed to judge from so distant a view, one would 
suppose that, with reference to grade, no difficulty would be found in constructing a railroad by 
that course to the point mentioned. If this be so, the intermediate route would be considerably 
less than by our trail. 
Following an old foot-path nearly west, we crossed a gravelly plain, and entered the dry 
sandy bed of a stream, supposed to be the Mojave, four or five miles above its mouth. This 
we ascended, and finally left to our right, where it turned around the western base of a mount¬ 
ain which formed the southern termination of a chain extending north, probably to the celebrated 
canon of the Colorado. Gradually rising a long slope, at the end of nine and a half miles from 
camp we reached the first springs of water. There were several oozing from beds of marl at 
the base of small hills, with patches of young grass surrounding them. Our mules were not 
thirsty, and we moved onward. With a new course north 35° west, we travelled twelve miles 
farther, and encamped at dark ; finding in an arroyo a little grass, but no water. Wood also 
is very scarce, and for camp-fires we used the dry stalks of yuccas. We are still upon the 
slope of the great valley upon our right, which looks green and inviting in the distance, but is 
probably waterless and barren, as where it was crossed this morning. 
The day had been very cold, with flying clouds and wind from northwest. Cai-rook, the guide, 
shivered under the piercing blasts until the promised dragoon overcoat was furnished to cover 
his naked body ; after which he walked very proudly ahead of the train. Many of his companions 
followed us the whole day. They knew that we had nothing more to give, and yet they seemed 
to regret our departure. Our policy has been to treat them as reasonable beings ; asking only 
what was right, and submitting to no wrong. We cheerfully paid what they considered fair 
damages for wheat-fields accidentally destroyed, but gave no presents that could be construed 
into a tribute for passing through their country. A trade was established, which taught them 
the value of their own agricultural labors, and the advantage to be derived from future parties 
of emigrants which might follow us. The effect was to make them pleased with themselves 
and with us. Therefore, instead of annoying the party, as they frequently might have done, 
and especially during the crossing of the river, for trifling rewards they rendered great assist¬ 
ance. Although the vigilance of guards and sentinels was not relaxed, still we slept as free 
from care in the midst of six hundred Indian warriors as we would have done in any city of the 
