SANDY DESERT.—SODA LAKE. 
123 
March 8 —Camp 142.—Our spring, this morning, was filled to the high-water mark, hut that 
afforded sufficient only for a moderate allowance to each mule. Had we the means of exca¬ 
vating to a gl-eater depth, it is probable that an abundant supply might be procured. One of 
the herders found a second spring in a marly spot, where water trickled from the surface; but 
having no spade to clear out the dirt and rocks, only a few buckets full were obtained from it. 
While packing up, Lieutenant Jones, with a detachment of the escort, arrived, having travelled 
during the night. His mules looked fresh, and able to wait for water till the spring might be 
filled. 
We ascended a granitic ridge to cut off a detour which led around through the open valley 
upon our left. From the hills we saw towards the north a row of volcanic peaks ; beyond 
which appeared a deep and wide valley, probably that of the Mojave river. Still more distant 
was a snow-capped mountain, said to be near Rio Virgen, or Santa Clara. Northwest was seen 
the lofty range of the Sierra Madre, with several lesser ridges of mountains intervening. 
Following the crest we soon came to a spur, along which we plunged down almost precip¬ 
itously into the valley before mentioned, which sweeps around the southern base of the marl¬ 
spring mountains. Then, following the arroyo which threaded this valley, we passed a gap 
about a quarter of a mile wide, through metamorphic mountains ; and, without any apparent 
change in the declivity, within a few miles entered a blank desert of drifted sand ; but the 
surface was compact and hard, so that we passed easily and rapidly over it. In the midst of 
this barren plain were low isolated ridges of rocky hills, upon the northwest sides of which 
sand was piled nearly to the tops, showing the direction of the prevailing winds. Our trail 
passed between them, and a few miles beyond the sand disappeared. We then entered the dry 
bed of a lake covered with efflorescent salts, probably sulphate of soda. Having traversed this 
with a good road for about six miles, at ten o’clock in the evening we reached the camp of 
Lieutenant Ives, where water and grass were abundant. The latter was salt, and the former 
brackish; but, nevertheless, they sufficed to relieve present necessities. 
By odometer the distance from Marl springs is thirty miles—the greatest jornada, without 
water, that has been encountered upon our route. But, although the mules were much worn 
down and wearied by the long-continued journey of many months, we have to-day lost not an 
animal, and neither man nor beast has suffered from thirst. For an emigrant-road it is prob¬ 
ably the best route yet discovered across this western desert. 
From Rio Colorado our marches have been forced, from there not being subsistence sufficient 
to afford time for explorations upon the right and left, as we desired. We were compelled to 
follow the guidance of the Indians over a high point of the mountain range in order to obtain 
water, and enable us to preserve and transport the collections and notes previously obtained; 
otherwise we would have tried to follow the bed of the Mojave river, provided this supposed 
channel actually exists, even though its course should have been found more circuitous towards 
the north; and we should have also explored farther south for a lower pass, which the conforma¬ 
tion of the country we have seen appears to indicate. It is hoped that the party of Lieutenant 
Williamson, which is believed to have had orders to proceed in this direction from the city of 
San Francisco to the Colorado, has succeeded in obtaining all the information upon these, points 
which the government may require. 
Upon our arrival at the camp of Lieutenant Ives, we found that Lieutenant Tidball, with the 
escort and one of the guides, had gone on some twelve or fifteen miles farther to a point on the 
Mojave river, where he expected to find a flowing stream of pure water and better grass. Those 
who remained had seen Pai-Ute camp-fires near the mountains, and the Indian guide thought 
that there was danger of an attack ; therefore the young gentlemen were themselves standing 
guard, and were glad of a reinforcement. As Lieutenant Ives had completed a set of astro¬ 
nomical observations, the labors for the day were ended, and all, except the watchful sentinels, 
threw their blankets upon the luxuriant grass to obtain the rest which they needed. 
March 9 —Camp 143.—Once more we have charming weather, like that experienced upon the 
