124 
SODA LAKE.—PRODUCTS OF COLORADO VALLEY. 
Colorado and Bill Williams’ fork. There is the same transparency of atmosphere at sunrise 
so frequently noticed before. 
Looking eastward, the mountains we have passed have a forbidding appearance,'and even the 
gap by which we entered the basin seems nearly closed by a projecting spur. Towards the 
southeast is a great plain. The Mojave lake extends towards the north. Its height above the 
Colorado is by survey seven hundred and sixty-six feet, and the distance from that river by our 
trail is ninety-seven miles. This would seem to allow sufficient inclination for the channel of 
a stream. 
At last night’s camp, wherever we turned the sod, water was found ; but it was highly 
alkaline, effervescing with acids like Rochelle powders. Some of the soldiers reported that, near 
by, they found a small quantity of fresh water. The lake for miles, as far as we could see, was 
covered to the depth of about half an inch with an efflorescent powder, white, or having a yel¬ 
lowish tinge, as if colored with oxide of iron. Mr. Marcou preserved specimens of it for future 
analyzation. It may prove a profitable article of commerce. The water found in the marshy 
pools was not palatable to men, but the mules drank it freely. At 10 a. m. we renewed our 
march. The route was nearly west, through a wide valley of drifted sand. The day was 
exceedingly warm, and the reflection of the sun’s rays from the parched desert rendered the 
journey more oppressive than any before experienced. Our mules suffered greatly; six were 
wearied out and left behind. At length, having accomplished twelve miles, we were gladdened 
by the sight of Mojave river, a beautiful stream of fresh water, from ten to twenty feet w T ide, 
and a foot deep. It flows rapidly upon a hard, pebbly channel ; and, a few hundred yards 
below, suddenly disappears beneath the sand. The Indian says it does not rise again until it 
reaches the Colorado. We encamped, and sent our mules to graze within ravines among the 
hills, where was found a small quantity of grass, and an aromatic shrub which they browsed 
upon very freely. 
This evening our Indian guide repeated the object of the Mojaves and their chiefs in sending 
him with us. “The road,” said he, “ is good. Water is sufficient. Mules do not die of thirst. 
Mojaves have a good heart, and are friends to Americans. We want you to write these things 
to your great chief, that his people may come and buy our corn and flour, and vegetables. Let 
them, in return, give us clothing and knives. If they need assistance, Mojaves will afford it, 
and will guide them where water and grass may be found.” It would seem as if these simple 
people were really pleased with the first dawning light of civilization. They feel the want of 
comfortable clothing, and perceive some of the advantages of trade. There is no doubt that, 
before many years pass away, a great change will take place in their country. The advancing 
tide of emigration will soon take possession of it, and, unless the strong arm of government 
protects them, the native population will be driven to the mountains or be exterminated. The 
Mormons made a great mistake in not occupying the valley of the Colorado. They could there 
produce articles for export, as well as for subsistence. Tobacco is indigenous to the soil, and 
might be cultivated, as it is by the Pima Indians, on the Gila. Cotton, also, is probably of 
native growth, as it was raised extensively in the same region when first visited by Spaniards, 
in 1539. Specimens of it cultivated by Pimas and Maricopas upon the Gila have been pro¬ 
nounced by southern planters nearly equal to the best Sea Island variety. For adaptation to 
the cultivation of all kinds of grain and vegetables, the Colorado valley can scarcely be sur¬ 
passed. Upon the wide and rich bottom-lands below the junction of the Gila, sugar, and pos¬ 
sibly rice, might be raised. In that fertile region, now densely covered with mezquite forests, 
about ten miles from the river, may yet be seen the acequias of a Spanish colony, which, some 
fifty or sixty years since, attempted to gain a foothold there. Indians, however, jealous of the 
encroachments of whites, exterminated tlie settlers, as they had previously done the mis¬ 
sionaries at the junction. Since that time they were undisturbed until 1849, when we went 
among them to establish the boundary between the United States and Mexico. 
With regard to the navigation of the Colorado river, the report of Capt. Sitgreaves will prob- 
