16 
FORT RILEY. 
at dark arrived on the brow of the bluff, where trees whose tops are nearly on a level with us 
are growing in the valley of the creek. Here we encamped, or rather laid down. 
“ July 3.—The escort came in at sunrise, and we crossed the Mahungasa creek, which is 100 
feet wide and 3 deep, with a swift current, and is the largest creek we have yet crossed. It is 
rightly named Big Stone, for at the ford we found its bed covered with boulders. In two and a 
half miles we arrived on the bluff opposite the new fort on the Pawnee river, (or Republican 
fork,) and prepared for the rest of Sunday. We communicated with our friends at Fort Riley. 
The fort is to be built of white limestone, quarried or lifted from the escarpment of the bluff; 
and the soldiers' barracks, in a half-finished state, already make a fine appearance from a distance. 
“ July 4.—We were notified by a rifle report, at daylight, of the arrival of the national anniver¬ 
sary. After numerous discharges of fire-arms, we started for the Kansas river for the purpose 
of crossing to the opposite side. This was determined upon because the north side of the 
Smoky Hill fork had not been examined, while there have been several surveys made of the 
south side. An India Rubber ponton, procured from Fort Riley by the kindness of Major Ogden 
and Lieut. Sergeant, acting assistant quartermaster, was placed too low for our light vehicle, and 
it upset while floating across—a small incident for the 4th of July. Our horses were crossed by 
swimming, and we arrived about noon at the fort. This is placed at the junction of the Pawnee 
river with the Kansas, and not in the forks of the Smoky Hill and Pawnee, as we were before 
informed. There is a noble spring near the site, which appears to be well chosen at the head 
of navigation on the Kansas, from whence supplies can be sent to the posts in the Indian country 
and to New Mexico. A ferry across the Pawnee river (as the officers call the Republican fork) 
conveyed our wagon over; which was a difficult operation, however, but safely accomplished 
under the direction of Mr. Homans, while I was indulgent enough to myself to accept the invita¬ 
tion of Captain Lovell, commanding, to dine at the officers’ mess. Lieut. Sergeant, acting 
assistant quartermaster, &c., did all that he could to supply our wants, and started us with 
fresh supplies. After a short oooning, I proceeded .7.59 miles to a spring in the bottom, near the 
Smoky Hill, passing one of delicious cool water, out from the bottom and under the bluff a 
half mile back, but where there is, unfortunately, no wood. After having crossed Pawnee river 
we entered upon the bottom in the forks, which is a mile and a half in width, and of rich alluvial 
soil. In seasons when not overflowed—and it is believed it rarely is covered with flood—it would 
produce fine fields of hemp. For two miles from this bottom, the ascent is so gentle as hardly to 
be discernible. At the junction of the two forks there is a body of large cotton-wood, with elms 
intermixed; and the ravines on the hill-sides are also well filled with small oaks, which are useful 
for fuel, but few are suitable for building purposes. The valley of the Smoky Hill fork is on 
our left, and is from one to two miles wide, with the circuitous river-bed in it fringed with 
poplars, presenting a lovely picture, and is very favorable for the construction of a railroad. 
“ July 5.—Leaving the beautiful spring at which we had encamped, we crossed the bottom 
and skirted along the hills S. 75° W. for 2.26 miles, and then, continuing the same course, 
ascended the slight undulation which slopes up from the bottom, until we came to Deep or Syca¬ 
more creek. Here we found the water too deep to cross, and turned north two and a quarter 
miles to the first ripple, where, with a little cutting and aiding down the wagon, we crossed 
safely; and after ascending for four miles, we passed again S. 72° W. to the bottom, where we 
found the slope of the hills very fine sand and heavy pulling. Deflecting to S. 80° W., we 
struck off along the beautiful flat, which reminded us of the Nebraska. It is here about five miles 
wide, the Smoky Hill fork skirting the south side. Wagons from Fort Riley should keep on the 
brow of the slope from Pawnee river to Sycamore creek; then passing over the point to cut off a 
bend, they should follow the bottom land, near the foot of the slope, for seven miles, to the creek 
upon which we are encamped. These creeks can be easily bridged. Coming to a creek with 
little water", but a deep eastern bank, we lowered the wagon down it and made camp just before 
dark. Distance by route, 22.50 miles. 
