ROAD FROM FORT RILEY TO WALNUT CREEK. 
19 
extending northwest over a field of several square miles in extent, with grass and saline plants 
intermixed. We attempted to cross this sun-flower field, but were very soon forced back to the 
high ground, for the water was rushing over it, being backed up by the rise of a creek five miles 
before us, showing the extent of yesterday’s rain. After travelling twenty-nine miles we came 
upon a torrent of muddy water, running in banks too deep and sharp for crossing without labor, 
and, in our vicinity, too deep also to ford, and we therefore encamped much fatigued by the 
day’s work. The quartermaster’s road from Fort Riley should strike higher up the Kansas, and 
cross the ridge to the west of our line. 
“July 12.—The Arroyo creek had fallen so much that we passed safely over it this morning, 
and afterwards met two Indians hunting buffalo. From them we could only learn, by signs, 
that their people were encamped over the next ridge, on Walnut creek. Crossing Mosquito creek 
in two and a half miles, which is a branch of Cow creek, and is dotted here and there with ash, 
elm and cotton-wood trees, we came in a short time in sight of the elms and ash of Walnut 
creek. It is difficult to cross this creek with wagons above the ford for the Santa Fe road, 
which is near its mouth. We crossed over, however, and followed down the west side, and 
found the party under Lieutenant Beckwith in camp, waiting for us since the ninth instant. Here 
we also found Brevet Major Johnson, sixth infantry, in command of a camp, being about to build 
a fort upon the creek ; the fort on the Arkansas, 100 miles west, from whence his present stores 
are received, being about to be abandoned. In the night Colonel Sumner, Majors Morris and 
Hagner, returning from New Mexico with an escort, arrived at camp: Our Delaware guides 
were here discharged. I furnished for Major Ogden, A. Q. M., a description of the country his 
guides had shown me from Fort Riley, with the distances travelled, and advised him that with 
proper bridges a fine and remarkably level track could be found thus far on our route for the 
location of any kind of a road. Of course, the relative merits of the two sides of the Kansas I 
cannot discuss. The four bridges on the main streams would be an item of cost; but if Fort 
Riley, on the Kansas, is at the head of the steamboat navigation, then this is the proper way for 
a route to New Mexico south or north, for wagons or for a railroad. The character of the country 
changes materially in soil, climate and productions at the ridge between the Kansas and Arkansas 
rivers. Some buffalo-grass, scattered in patches, was noticed after crossing the Saline ; now it is 
the prevailing grass. ” 
ITINERARY OF LIEUTENANT BECKWITH’S PARTY, WHICH FOLLOWED THE SANTA FE ROAD. 
The following extracts from my own journal descriptive of the country which I traversed on the 
Santa Fe road, on a line some 20 or 30 miles distant, and nearly parallel with that followed by 
Captain Gunnison, are added, to show that the fertility he has described along the valley of the 
Kansas river and its main tributaries, extends far back over the rolling prairies towards the 
sources of the small streams and rivulets of the country, and that its general character is such 
that a railroad may be carried over it in any desired direction. 
June 26.—As stated by Captain Gunnison, we moved out of camp as his party set off on the 
route of the Kansas river and Smoky Hill fork, and nine miles out passed Black Jack creek, in 
which there was but little running water, and, skirting its banks near the crossing, a few scat¬ 
tered trees; and generally in the early part of the day timber was very scarce, but afterwards 
became more abundant a few miles from the road, and at times extended quite up to it. We 
had at one time a beautiful view of a finely-wooded valley to the south; and later, of one to 
the north, opening and extending far to the west. This valley we judged to be that of 
the Wahkarrussi, a tributary of the Kansas river. Major Emory, in his report, says: “On a 
branch of the Wahkarrussi, where the Oregon trail strikes it, a seam of bituminous coal crops 
out. This is worked by the Indians, one of whom we met driving an ox-cart loaded with coal, 
to Westport. ” In the early morning the prairie was quite level, but later became finely rolling, 
and was all abundantly covered with grass. After a ride of 20J miles we encamped at Willow 
