28 
RAILROAD OF THE HUMBOLDT MOUNTAINS. 
we followed ; but on arriving in this valley travellers should hear to the south, and intersect the 
line one day’s journey to the north of the pass to.which it leads in the Humboldt mountains. 
Packing parties can easily cross by the northern pass, however, to the valley of Humboldt river. 
Antelope, sage-cocks, and ducks were quite numerous in the plain and on the ponds. 
Mr. Egloffstein and party rejoined us at noon. His observations and topographical sketches 
conclusively establish the practicability of the railroad line crossing from Cedar mountain to 
the south of Pilot Peak, and thence to our present camp—and its consequent superiority to all 
others in this vicinity. The general grades upon it will be readily determined by a reference 
to the level of our camps of the twelfth and thirteenth of May, and those of yesterday and 
to-day. The same references will also exhibit a singular feature in the formation of what is 
called the Great Basin, analogous to that observed in approaching the Bocky mountains from 
the east, where the gradual and uniformly increasing ascent from the Mississippi or Missouri 
rivers forms an immense trunk of table-land upon which these mountains are elevated. The 
altitudes referred to in the Desert are 4,666 and 4,659 feet, respectively, above the sea; and of 
our last and present camps, on quite as extensive a plain, north and south, as the former, 6,004 
and 6,061 feet above the sea. And upon this elevated plateau, as in the case of the Kocky 
mountains, the most extensive and remarkable range of mountains we have seen in the Basin, 
the Humboldt, is elevated, its altitude being at least nine or ten thousand feet above the sea ; 
and from the western base, as will be seen hereafter, a corresponding subsidence of plains takes 
place, extending quite to the foot of the Sierra Nevada, where we again return to nearly the 
altitude of the Great Salt lake. Latitude of camp, 40° 41' 50". 
May 22.—To avoid the miry banks of numerous small creeks in the plain, we continued our 
course of yesterday until reaching the foot-hills of a mountain spur extending from the Humboldt 
mountains, from just north of the pass we were approaching, several miles into the plain, where 
it terminates, when we wound gently along its base, and crossed the main branch of Franklin 
river, (which descends from a high peak to the north of the pass,) a few yards above the plain. 
Though but twelve feet wide and three deep, we were obliged to bridge this stream on account 
of the miry character of the soil when moist, even on the mountain- sides. From this creek, 
descending slightly, we passed over spurs of hills descending from the pass, and in 2.05 miles 
came upon a small rill descending from the lowest point in its summit, which was but 0.84 
mile distant, 1.15 miles below which we encamped in a side ravine, finding it impracticable 
to descend with our wagons, on account of the miry character of the soil and of a rocky ravine 
commencing 1.33 miles below camp, to the valley of Humboldt river, which lies directly west of 
this pass. Numerous small creeks descending from various parts of the pass unite, forming a 
stream five feet in depth, at present, above the head of the ravine, through which it descends 
with a rapid current to the valley below. Its banks in the ravine are lined with willows and 
a small growth of cotton-wood, and large fallen rocks obstruct its easy passage, did not the soft 
soil forbid it. The narrow part of the ravine is three miles in length, and its rocky sides 
very abrupt; and some parts, particularly near its head, rise vertically to the height of 40 and 
60 feet. On the north side, immediately above these rocky walls, the mountain spurs are 
rolling, or intersected by ravines, and rise rapidly to a much greater height than they attain 
directly above the summit of the pass. They are easily ridden over, however, in any direction 
near the stream. On the south side these hills are more abrupt, both towards the stream and the 
east, and are more rocky and broken, the narrow ravines partaking slightly of the character of 
canones. Below this the ravine opens and is easily accessible on horseback, although the 
mountains are still high above it for three miles, whence they subside gradually into the 
Humboldt valley on the south side of the stream ; but on the north side, are terminated quite 
abruptly by a remarkable round bald butte, standing directly in front of the pass in looking 
eastward from the Humboldt river. From the summit of this butte the country to the west is 
seen to great advantage. The Humboldt valley is broad and open for 30 miles between its main 
branches, which are seen descending from the north and south of this position ; beyond which 
