62 
HUMBOLDT MOUNTAIN PASS.—CHARACTER OF THE BASIN. 
favorable passage exists to the north of Fish creek, connecting directly with passages to the west 
quite to the base of the Humboldt mountains; and this will doubtless be the preferable line, as it 
will enable us to cross the desert by a shorter line and a more firm path. The ascending grades 
upon this section will be merely those of the ascent of the successive plains. The Humboldt 
mountains are a narrow but elevated ridge, containing much snow during most of the year. 
The length of the pass by which they will be crossed is nine miles, about three of which are 
occupied by a narrow rocky ravine, above which the road should be carried on the sloping spurs 
of the mountains, on the western descent. The summit of the pass is five hundred feet above 
the extensive plain east of it, but considerably more above the valley of Humboldt river, which 
succeeds it to the west. This pass offers no serious obstacle to the passage of a railroad. Cedar 
only is found in these mountains, and in those to the east of it, sufficiently large for railroad 
ties ; and although it will require transporting for long distances, it is believed to be sufficiently 
abimdant for the construction of the road. 
The open valley of Humboldt river immediately succeeds this section, and should be followed 
for about 180 miles. No other description is necessary of this direct and valuable passage 
across the Basin than that given in an extract from Colonel Fremont’s Geographical Memoir, 
addressed to the Senate, aj)pended to the journal of the 22d of May, in the preceding part of 
this report. 
The country to the south of this valley consists of an alternation of narrow mountains and vah 
leys rapidly succeeding each other. The mountains have a general north and south course, but 
not unfrequently vary many degrees from that general direction, and, occasionally, cross chains 
are seen, closing the valleys to the north and south; but large spurs more frequently extend out 
from succeeding chains, and unite to form cross ranges, or overlap and obstruct the view. 
They are sharp, rocky, and inaccessible in many parts, but are low and easily passed in others. 
Their general elevation varies from 1,500 to 3,000 feet above the valleys, and but few of them 
retain snow upon their highest peaks during the summer. They are liberally supplied with 
springs and small streams, but the latter seldom extend far into the plains. At the time of 
melting snows they form many small ponds and lakes, but at others are absorbed by the soil 
near the bases of the mountains. Grass is found in abundance upon nearly every range, but 
timber is very scarce, a small scattered growth of cedar only being seen upon a few ranges. 
The valleys rarely extend uninterruptedly east and west, to a greater width than five or ten 
miles, but often have a large extent north and south. They are very irregular in form, fre¬ 
quently extending around the ends of mountains, or are united to succeeding valleys by level 
passages. They are much less fertile than the mountains, but generally support several varie¬ 
ties of artemisia, relieving them from the character of barrenness or desert. There are, how¬ 
ever, many barren spots in each of these valleys, and the soil is seldom one half covered with 
vegetation, even for a few acres, while the great mass of it is merely sprinkled by the sombre 
artemisia foliage, presenting the aspect of a dreary waste, unrelieved by inviting shades, grassy 
plats, and floral beauties, and is nowhere suitable for settlements and cultivation. The accom¬ 
panying profile of the line which we traversed in this part of the Basin, will serve to convey a 
general idea of its formation. From Humboldt river, there are three lines which may be 
followed to the foot of the Sierra Nevada. That by the Noble’s Pass road, leaving the river a 
few miles to the east of where we returned to it, is the most direct, and is believed to be the 
best, as it avoids the principal range of mountains which we crossed on the line followed a few 
miles to the south of this, the two lines uniting on the shore of Mud lake. By the line fol¬ 
lowed, it is necessary to cross two ranges of the general character of the Basin mountains. 
The third line leads from the sink of the Humboldt to Pyramid lake without obstruction; but 
of the line passing thence by its shores to Honey Lake valley, little is known. It is 119 miles 
by the line followed from Humboldt river to the west shore of Mud lake, at the foot of Madelin 
Pass; but the northern line will diminish this distance at least one-fifth. The fertility of this 
section corresponds with that of the line south of Humboldt river. The northern route 
