60 
APPENDIX A.—DIARY OF THE EXPEDITION. 
creek. The water rushes over “falls,” in a hold and rapid current, at a rate of nine knots per 
hour. The river at this point has a good rocky bottom; is about eighty feet wide, and two and a half 
feet deep. There are here seven little islands, through which the stream flows with great force. 
This crossing presents no difficulties whatever, only requiring a few hours’ labor to cut down 
the hanks on either side,-to permit wagons heavily loaded to cross over without trouble. Those 
who are well acquainted with the several crossings of the Pecos below this say that it is by far 
the best along the river. The animals were hobbled and turned out to graze. The grama-grass 
is good and abundant. Sufficient mezquite around camp for cooking purposes. The water is 
brackish, but not to such a degree as to affect the health. General direction, north 42° east; 
miles, 6. 
Same Camp — Thursday , March 9, 1854.—The soil of the valley, on examination, proves to be 
fertile and of easy cultivation. It can be irrigated from many points of the river. All the way 
up it, as far as we have gone, it is rapid, and varies from five to twenty feet in depth. Its 
waters are discolored, and abound in catfish of a very large size. There are also, though not 
plenty, some wild duck and water-hen along the banks. 
The valley of the Pecos is about two and a half miles in width, enclosed by gently receding 
table-lands, and, although nearly destitute of timber, yet supplies an abundance of mezquite 
root for fuel. The surface of the table-lands and ridges present only the dwarf mezquite brush, 
but beneath the whole earth is a network of the root, in some instances as large round as a 
man’s leg, and furnishing the best fuel known to the country. The town of El Paso and its 
vicinity are supplied entirely in this way. The Pecos traverses its valley in a very tortuous 
course, and with a current of about two and a half miles to the hour, and from five to twenty 
feet depth of water. In many places bluff banks of diluvium and gypsum, about fifty feet high, 
impinge upon its banks. The river below the 32d parallel changes its character from a rocky 
bed, with occasional rapids, to soft mud bottom and banks. Fording-places below this paralle 
are very rare, and present in all cases a depth of water which, at any other than the dry season, 
absolutely prevents the passage of wagons or wheeled vehicles. From the 32d parallel to its 
mouth, the Pecos is always navigable for small stern-wheeled boats, the difficulties consisting 
merely in its extreme crookedness and narrowness. The banks are perpendicular, about ten 
feet high, and falling into the stream constantly—the deep water being uniform from one shore 
to the other. The average width would not exceed one hundred feet. 
It is not deemed advisable to encounter that terra incognita , the Llano Estacado, with the 
whole command, until the practicability of such a measure shall have been tested by a previous 
examination. Our very limited information respecting it points out the necessity of such an 
examination, to avoid the danger to which so large a party would be exposed by encountering 
this Jornada. Captain Taplin was intrusted with this important duty. The following is a copy 
of his instructions: 
Falls op the Pecos River, Mouth op Delaware Creek, 
March 9, 1854. 
Sir: You will please proceed to examine the “Llano Estacado,” from this point to the head¬ 
waters of the Colorado or Brazos river, on a line 20° east of north, noting particularly the 
practicability of the country for wagons, and the intervals, as exactly as possible, between the 
permanent watering places. You will continue your examination eastward until you strike 
some stream flowing to the east or south. 
Should you be successful in finding water at reasonably convenient intervals along your route 
from this point, you will, after resting your animals one day, return by the same route; but if 
not, you will please, after reaching any stream flowing eastward, and at a distance of more 
than sixty miles from this place, to make twenty-five miles of southing, and from thence return 
in a direct line to this camp. 
Your party will consist of five mounted men of the topographical party, and five infantry 
