72 
J. J. BUTZER, PORTLAND, OREGON 
LAWN GRASS 
SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING AND CARE OF LAWNS 
It must not be supposed that by sowing grass seeds at any season of the year in soil of any character, and in any state 
of cultivation or neglect, a durable, attractive turf is to be formed. From the beginning the lawn is both troublesome and 
expensive, and even when obtained, it is like liberty, preserved only by “eternal vigilance.” The coarser natural grasses 
and weeds will take possession unless kept down, and wherever, from any cause, a bare spot is formed it will rapidly enlarge 
unless repaired. 
A good foundation must be secured, or the rest of the work will be entirely wasted, and too great care cannot be ex¬ 
ercised, since the roots must be able to penetrate quite 18 inches in order to keep the grasses growing through the scorching 
days of July, August and September, if the ground is not already very rich, give a liberal application of fertilizer, avoiding 
the use of stable manure, as it invariably contains seeds of weeds and noxious grasses. Bone meal never produces the 
"burned” appearance so often noticed after the use of ammoniated fertilizers. Harrow or rake the surface to the finest 
possible condition and roll until all elevations and depressions have been removed. 
Rake the seeds in lightly, following with a roller of medium weight, a firmly rolled surface being absolutely necessary 
if the ground be dry; small areas may readily be packed firm by the back of a spade. Sowings made in the Fall, from the 
first of September to the middle of October, are most successful, but if deferred until Spring, sowings may be made in 
February, March and April. 
When the grass is well set, about 4 inches high, it should be cut with a sickle or mown with the machine set to avoid 
cutting too closely, 2 inches at least being left above the root. After then a cutting every ten days and an occasional rolling 
will make the grass finer, strengthen the turf and keep all rank-growing weeds in check. In the heat of Summer the mower 
should be arranged so as to leave ample protection to the roots. An occasional saturation is much better than the daily 
sprinkling commonly thought beneficial. If bare spots appear they must be patched up by breaking the ground about 10 
inches deep, smoothing the surface and raking in double the usual allowance of seed. To maintain the vigor and color 
of the grass a light top dressing of bone meal two or three times a year is advisable. Liberal applications of Grozit Brand 
sheep manure are very beneficial and will give your lawn that rich, velvety appearance that is so much admired by everyone. 
For quick results apply a light dressing of Vigoro or Sulphate of Ammonia. 
BUTZER’S FANCY LAWN GRASS SEED 
It is the easiest thing in the world to grow a beautiful lawn. There is nothing that gives quicker growth and a thicker 
sod than Butzer’s Fancy Lawn Grass Mixture. It produces a perfect and enduring lawn of luxuriant richness, with closely 
interwoven, firm, elastic turf, and is often ready for mowing four weeks from sowing. This Lawn Grass is composed of a 
combination of various native and foreign, fine-leaved, deep-rooting grasses of interweaving habit, that flourish under 
our varied conditions, soils and climates, growing during different seasons of the year, so that a deep green, smooth and 
velvety sward, free from clumps, is maintained from Spring to Winter, year after year, and without burning brown in 
Summer. - 
Whether you want to seed a small grass plot in your yard or a lawn of more pretentious size, you should use 
Butzer s Fancy Lawn Grass Seed. Sow 1 lb. to 400 square feet. Price per lb. 50c, postpaid 
BUTZER’S SHADY LAWN GRASS SEED 
For sowing on the north side of buildings, between houses, and for securing a lawn 
under large shade trees 
In many lawns there are places which seem as if nothing can be grown ; some are shaded by large trees and 
others by buildings. For these locations we have offered for some time our Butzer’s Shady Lawn Grass Seed, 
which readily meets the desired requirement. Price per lb. 60c, postpaid 
CREEPING BENT GRASS 
(Agrostis Stolonifera.) Distinctive on account of its compact, creeping, rooting stems. Of rapid growth and 
spreading habit, forming a strong, durable turf. Good for lawns and putting greens because of its fine texture. 
If sown alone, use 50 lbs. to the acre. Write for price. 
SEASIDE BENT 
The long creeping stems and spreading habit of this splendid grass make it ideal for Putting Greens ; it 
makes a lasting turf that withstands hard usage. 
The leaves are fine and it develops a dense growth, making it valuable. Write for price. 
CHEWING FESCUE 
A low-growing grass, fine leaved, forms a close turf that prevents ingress of weeds, permanent in all kinds of 
soils, even the lightest and driest ; unexcelled for lawns and golf courses when properly grown. Write for price. 
Crested Dog Tail—(Cynoduras cristatus)—A val¬ 
uable addition for lawn grasses which require close 
cutting and an adaptability to resist tramping, as in 
golf links, etc.; about 21 pounds to the bushel. Write 
for price. 
Canadian Blue Grass—(Poa compressa)—Recom¬ 
mended in all pasture mixtures on dry soil; thrives 
well on clay or hard trodden and poor soil. Sow 28 
pounds per acre. Write for price. 
Kentucky Blue Grass—(Poa pratensis)—As is well 
known, this is the grass for which the State of Ken¬ 
tucky is famous. Although it is preeminently a pasture 
grass, it is frequently used in making lawns. When 
Kentucky Blue Grass is used for lawn purposes, the 
seed is generally sown at the rate of 30 to 40 lbs. to 
the acre. If White Dutch Clover is desired, this seed 
should be added at the rate of about % pound to every 
15 pounds of grass seed. Write for price. 
Red, or Creeping Fescue (Festuca rubra.)—Red Fes¬ 
cue is adapted to about the same general climatic con¬ 
ditions as Blue Grass and can be grown as far north¬ 
ward as any agriculture is possible. Its leaves are 
bright green and the plant does not grow in tufts but 
creeps by underground stems, so that one plant may 
eventually cover a circle two to four feet in diameter. 
It is used mainly as a lawn plant. On sandy or grav¬ 
elly soil it makes exquisite lawns. It will withstand 
more shade than most grasses and is therefore val¬ 
uable for shady lawns. Write for price. 
Rough Stalked Meadow Grass (Poa Trivialis)—A 
grass which deserves much greater popularity and 
should be better known as it is an ideal shade grass in 
the Northern half of the United States if it can have 
enough moisture. This grass is a perennial closely re¬ 
lated to Kentucky Blue Grass but somewhat finer and 
softer. It has a splendid apple-green color and is a 
creeper. Sow in Fall or Spring, at rate of 1 lb. to 
every 300 square feet. Write for price. 
Red Top (Agrostis Vulgaris)—A good perennial 
grass for permanent lawns and pastures. Does best on 
moist marshy land. If not overflow land, it is advis¬ 
able to mix it with Meadow Fescue, Orchard Grass or 
Alsike Clover. Sow hulled seed 14 lbs. to the acre. 
Wood Meadow Grass—(Poa nemoralis)—In the 
Northern and Middle States this is the best of all lawn 
grasses for deep shade. Very hardy and a perennial. 
Its creeping roots establish a lasting, even and deep 
green turf. On dry rich soil it makes good pasturage 
and hay, but is usually too expensive to sow. Sow in 
spring, 30 to 35 lbs. per acre. (14 lbs. to the bushel.) 
Write for price. 
All of these grass seeds are governed in value by 
regular market quotations, and their values are sub¬ 
ject to frequent changes, quite as much so as grain; 
and for this reason it is impossible for me to quote 
prices here which will hold good for the season. But 
would be pleased to give quotations on any seeds you 
may need. 
