Planting Suggestions for Roses 
LOCATION 
Select a sunny location where water does not stand after 
a rain, and as far away as possible from large trees and shrubs, 
as the roots of these usually extend farther than the branches, 
and sap the ground for a considerable distance. Do not plant 
on ground where roses or other trees have grown old and died. 
A sandy loam soil is best with a clay sub-soil but roses will do 
well in almost any soil if it is well fertilized, drained and cul¬ 
tivated. If the only available site is damp or soggy all the time, 
drain it with tiles or stones laid at the edge of the beds. 
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 
If possible, have the beds plowed or spaded as deep as 12 to 
18 inches, turning the top soil under and thoroughly pulverizing 
the soil a week or more before planting in order to let it settle. 
PLANTING 
Open the package of roses as soon as they arrive and plant 
at once or dig a trench and cover the roots with moist or wet 
dirt and the tops with straw or burlap to prevent drying out. 
Prune off any broken or bruised roots and small branches and 
cut the heavy canes back to about 6 or 8 inches above the graft 
or union of the root stock as shown in the illustration. When 
requested to do so we will be glad to prune the plants ready 
for planting before making shipment. 
Dig a hole large and deep enough so that the top of the 
graft will be at least three inches below the ground level, with 
the roots extended in a natural position. Fill in the hole with 
loose dirt and soak with water and after refilling the hole use 
both feet to tramp the earth firmly around the roots Loose dirt 
should then be raked to them, leaving only an inch or so of the 
cane showing, and when signs of new growth starts, this may 
be worked down to a cultivating level. 
Many of our customers are finding the secret of success in 
growing roses by planting them in the fall and early winter 
months, and more and more are buying roses in the fall. Usually 
the weather is ideal for outdoor work and the plants are easily 
established and ready to grow at the first hint of spring. Order 
as early as possible. The demand for the choicest varieties is 
frequently such that the stock is exhausted before the season is 
over in the spring. 
FERTILIZERS 
If well rotted manure can be secured we recommend covering the beds with 
this, allowing it to remain on top until the first cultivation, when it can be worked 
into the soil. A heavy application can be made with fall planted roses but we use 
it more sparingly on those planted in the spring. 
For soils lacking the proper amount of humus we find that the refuse of gins, 
containing the old bolls, lint, and dirt, is another fine fertilizer, as it rots easily and 
contains few, if any, weed or grass seeds. A liberal quantity of this material worked in¬ 
to the top soil after planting will benefit the land and when rotted will take the place of 
the more expensive leaf mold. Another advantage is that it will not burn the plants. 
Cottonseed meal and bone meal mixed in the proportion of nine parts of cotton¬ 
seed meal and one part of bone meal, using two or three tablespoonfuls around each 
plant in the spring and again in the fall, thoroughly mixing it in the soil just before 
a rain or before watering the beds, is also good. 
Another mixture of two parts of bone meal and one part of commercial sheep 
manure well mixed with the soil in the same manner and about the same amount as 
the cottonseed meal and bone meal described above. 
Caution should be taken to see that no fertilizer comes in direct contact with 
the roots and under no circumstances should it be placed under the plant at the time 
of planting. 
CULTIVATION 
The roots of roses should not be disturbed but the surface of the bed should 
be kept cultivated to a depth of two or three inches by going over it every week or 
