J. W. Erwin, Denton, Texas 
15 
EVERGREENS 
The popularity of evergreens as ornamental trees 
and shrubs has grown so much that no planting im¬ 
provement is considered complete without some of the 
many varieties grown in this climate. In Winter or 
Summer they bring to us the freshness of the great 
outdoors and their evergreen foliage always strikes a 
welcome chord that bespeaks the hospitality and re¬ 
finement of the owners. This season we offer the larg¬ 
est selection of fine varieties we have ever grown and 
in large quantities that enables us to match plants in 
practically the same size and shape, when desired. 
The plants offered are selected specimens, carefully 
dug and packed by experienced men so that they will 
reach you in perfect condition. The measurements 
are taken of them above the ground as they stand in 
the field and a liberal allowance is made for the tips. 
In order to avoid loss by any of our customers who 
are not familiar with transplanting evergreens, we 
offer the following simple suggestions. 
PLANTING SUGGESTIONS 
When the shipment is received, keep it shaded and plant immediately if pos¬ 
sible. The roots of coniferous evergreens should not be exposed to the wind or sun, 
as the pitch or sap will be apt to set, and if it dries or hardens, no amount of effort 
or soaking will revive the tree. Unless otherwise indicated, the very large size ever¬ 
greens are dug with a ball of earth around their roots which is held in place with 
burlap and indicated by the initials B & B. The smaller plants are also grown in the 
field but in gallon cans and are the safest to handle. The B & B plants should be 
carefully removed from the crate by lifting them by the ball of earth and gently placing 
them in the holes, previously prepared. The burlap should then be loosened at the 
top and rolled back so that moisture will readily enter from the surface. The bur¬ 
lap may be removed entirely if the ball of earth is not broken, but this is not necessary 
as it will rot out in a season. 
The plants growing in gallon cans, as stated above, are the safest and easiest to 
handle but the cans should be removed entirely when planting in a permanent place 
as they will grow off much faster and give less trouble in cultivation. This is best 
accomplished by cutting down the sides of the can with a sharp hatchet, using light 
strokes so as not to break the ball of earth. As the cans are usually rusted this is 
easily done and when the can is spread open the ball of earth with the roots can be 
lifted out, without breaking, and planted. 
Plant all evergreens at about the same depth as they stood in the nursery row 
and after soaking the loose dirt in the hole, tramp it firmly. If the plants show signs 
of wilting, spray the tops lightly with water every day or so until they revive, and 
should the weather turn off too hot and dry, give them some shade. With the taller 
varieties, a stake or an iron pipe driven in the ground by the side and the top of the 
plant secured to it will prevent the wind from blowing it loose at the ground until the 
roots are established. It is not necessary to prune any of the coniferous evergreens 
at the time of planting but the following season and thereafter, if they begin to grow 
open or “straggly,” the tips of the longer branches may be pinched or clipped off which 
will force out the foliage inside and make a more compact tree. Do not cut or pinch 
off the tip of the main lead or trunk on the upright growing trees unless you want to 
hold their height to a certain place. Most of the broadleafed evergreen shrubs may 
be greatly improved by pinching back the tips of the longer branches once or twice 
each season, which will cause them to become more compact. The broadleafed trees, 
as a rule, are allowed to grow naturally, but many of these may be sheared to any 
desired shape or size. The shrubs dug and shipped bare-rooted should be cut back 
to about one-half their height when planted. 
Most of the coniferous evergreens are subject to attack, especially in the hot, 
