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DAHLIADEl NURSERIES 
CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS 
The following directions are based upon years of 
experience and should be of value in solving some of 
your cultural problems. These suggestions should be 
changed to suit local requirements. However, we sin¬ 
cerely believe that the fundamental principles involved 
will apply throughout the country. 
SOIL PREPARATION 
The dahlia will grow and produce excellent results 
in a wide range of soils, other conditions being favor¬ 
able. It is not as much a matter of soil type as it is 
conditioning. To grow exhibition blooms to perfection, 
the nearer soil can be to ideal the better your results 
will be. Soil should contain enough clay to keep the 
fertility from leaching and also enough sand or stones 
to facilitate drainage. Fifty to sixty-five per cent sand 
is considered ideal. 
The use of peat moss broadcast and mixed well into 
the top-soil without the use of coarser material in the 
sub-soil is an advantage on heavy soil to open it up 
and on light soil it will conserve moisture and hold 
fertility. 
As soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, it 
may be further improved by a cover crop of oats and 
field peas. Or, better still, where winters are severe, 
sow rye in September or October. The green crop will 
do no harm during the late blooming season, will 
winter over, and should be turned under about two 
weeks before planting. In New Jersey and farther 
south, rye can be sowed after digging roots. A cover 
crop will add organic matter, supply humus and further 
adjust soil conditions. If soil is poor, the oats or rye 
may be top-dressed with stable or hen manure, the 
sooner after planting the better. 
A good time to work the soil, when no cover crop 
is planted, is about a month before planting, digging 
rather deep and thoroughly breaking up all lumps. 
Then rake the ground over about once a week to 
retain moisture. 
DRAINAGE. The primary factor, however, in grow¬ 
ing dahlias is that of drainage, which in sandy soils is 
well taken care of, but in heavy soils a quantity of 
coarse coal ashes should be dug in and thoroughly mixed 
with the subsoil. Then coarse manure, straw, litter or 
peat moss should be mixed into the top-soil. The 
addition of a good quantity of coarse sand will help 
drainage and aeration wonderfully in compact or clayey 
soil. 
For soggy soil we might suggest ditching 18 or more 
inches deep where the row is to be planted, running 
the ditch with the slope if possible. Fill in with coarse 
ashes, clinkers or any coarse material that will not rot, 
keeping it below spading depth, then fill in top with a 
mixture of soil and peat moss, probably 15 to 20 per 
cent peat moss, and to each bale of peat moss add 2 
pounds of powdered chalk (calcium carbonate CaCo 2 ). 
This will counteract any acidity from the peat moss 
See "Irrigation” for Tile Drainage System. 
LIMING. As a rule, the dahlia likes a reasonably 
acid soil, but will do equally well without the presence 
of much acid. Lime not only neutralizes acid, but 
makes the natural humus in the soil available as well 
as loosening heavy soil. With this in mind, liming at 
the rate of 1 pound to 20 to 30 square feet is a safe 
practise on heavy soil every 3 or 4 years. 
FERTILIZER 
Of the ten elements considered absolutely necessary 
to plant growth, we find nitrogen, phosphorus and 
potassium the prime essentials and the ones most 
lacking. 
Nitrogen stimulates the growth above ground, pro¬ 
ducing large bushes and flowers, but if used to excess 
the flowers will be soft, wilting readily, and the bushes 
will be overgrown and lower the vitality of the roots. 
Nitrogen is found naturally in humus (decomposed vege¬ 
table matter or manure). It can best be supplied in 
animal matter, such as bone meal, tankage or manure. 
Phosphoric acid increases the root development, es¬ 
pecially the lateral and fibrous roots, strengthens the 
plant growth and gives substance to the bush and 
flowers. It also aids in ripening the roots. This ele¬ 
ment is found in bone meal, tankage and acid phos¬ 
phate, with a small amount available in manures. 
Potash is the balancing agent for nitrogen and 
phosphoric acid. It gives color to the flowers and 
foliage, and vigor and tone to the plant in general. 
It is an essential in starch formation and aids in the 
maturing of well-nourished roots. This is found in 
wood ashes, muriate or sulphate of potash. 
Fertilizer to be applied before planting. Scatter 
broadcast after spading and mix thoroughly into the 
top-soil to every 100 square feet of ground or to each 
10 dahlia hills. 
5 lbs. Raw bone meal. 
10 lbs. Unleached wood ashes, or 
1 lb. Muriate or sulphate of potash, not both. 
An additional 5 lbs. bone meal may be spaded in 
before the above application if ground is very poor. 
Fertilizer or top dressing to be applied about August 
15. Scatter broadcast over ground, not closer than 6 
inches nor more than 18 inches from the stalk and 
rake in, to every 10 hills. 
1 Vi lbs. Raw bone flour. 
1 V 2 lbs. Animal tankage, or 
4 lbs. Sheep manure, not both. 
5 lbs. Unleached wood ashes, or 
V 2 lb. Muriate or sulphate of potash, not both. 
Manuring is not necessary, even in light soil, if the 
above formula is used, but an application of horse or 
cow manure or compost in the Fall is very good for 
soils lacking humus. This can be used as a top dressing 
for a cover crop, or dug in by shallow spading in the 
Fall to help decomposition and then spaded in deep 
about two weeks before planting. 
Don’t use nitrate of soda as a fertilizer. Don’t try 
