DAHLIADEL NURSERIES 
Page 25 
NOT PINCHED BACK 
Drawing Z is another system which is recommended 
for some varieties but can be used for most dahlias 
(except crotch bloomers) should you desire to see one 
early bloom. Our reason for not recommending this is 
that dahlias are not at their best in the hot weather 
and this one bloom is not always what we are ex¬ 
pecting. Again, the right half shows normal branch 
and bud development when not disbudded. There are 
a few varieties that need the old foliage on the main 
stalk to keep the roots functioning properly, so when 
removing this crown bloom leave the central stalk and 
leaves on the plant but disbud the entire stalk, as 
shown on the left half of drawing. 
PINCHING OUT is indicated on Drawings X and Y 
at P and P2, first and second pinching out, respec¬ 
tively. We recommend this system for most varieties. 
The smaller a plant is when pinched out, the quicker 
it will heal and branches develop. 
Allow only one main stalk to grow (never more than 
two). Pinch out the crown or centre above the second 
pair of leaves. The principle of taking out the centre 
is to develop the eyes, which are located at the base 
of the leaves. The top pair of eyes will make them¬ 
selves evident in surprisingly short time, and these 
shoots or branches on most varieties should be pinched 
back again, P2, leaving not more than one pair of 
eyes on each branch. By the time these get a start, 
the second or lower set of eyes on the main stalk will 
have developed along with the four above. These six 
stems should bear the first six flowers. 
DISBUDDING, as indicated by T in drawings, is the 
pinching or rolling out of the small bud growing at the 
base of each leaf. These can be cut out with a 
pointed knife if they have developed considerably be¬ 
fore disbudding. 
When the terminal bud on each of these stems is 
about the size of a small acorn, or as soon as the side 
shoots are large enough to pull out, disbud by taking 
out all the side buds and shoots except the lower pair 
on each of the branches which should be allowed to 
grow to form later flowers. Leave only one side shoot 
on each, as shown in Drawings X or Y, should you 
desire very large flowers. These new branches should 
be handled as the previous set as soon as they have 
developed sufficiently. All of the disbudded stem 
should be cut with the flower. This early disbudding 
and pruning is not solely for the benefit of the first 
six flowers, but mainly to keep the bush low and 
properly branched for the future crop, also aiding in 
root development. 
Should you fail to pinch out when plants are small, 
it will be necessary to use system shown on Drawing Z 
or exercise care with late topping or cutting back not 
to open hollow stems so that water can get in and 
start stem rot. These openings can be stopped up 
with wax or plaster paris. Should water get into the 
stalk, slit the stalk just above the nodes with the point 
of a sharp knife, and by twisting the knife let the 
water out. 
Certain varieties branch to excess. These should be 
thinned out at intervals of two weeks, and not more 
than six shoots allowed to come into bloom for the 
first flowers. This affords the plant better air circu¬ 
lation and sunlight. Without plenty of air and sunlight 
your blooms cannot be fully developed and your foliage 
will be easy prey for mildew. 
IRRIGATION 
When your dahlias need water, wet the ground so 
it will penetrate about a foot deep when growing in 
light soil. In heavy soil, watering need not be as 
heavy, as it may be followed by a rain and over-water¬ 
ing may result. Cultivate as soon as sufficient drainage 
has taken place, and do not water again until necessary, 
which will be a week or more. 
Except as recommended below for insect control, do 
not spray your dahlia bushes, nor sprinkle the surface 
of the ground every night or so, for this will only pack 
the surface, preventing air circulation and causing the 
soil to crust and dry rapidly in the sunshine. This also 
draws the feed roots to the surface, to be sickened by 
the heat of the sun’s rays. The flowers produced are 
soft and the root development very poor, low in vitality 
and hard to winter. 
TILE DRAINAGE can be easily and inexpensively in¬ 
stalled in heavy soil for irrigating in dry weather and 
afford drainage in wet weather. Arrange your rows of 
dahlias with the natural slope and where each row of 
dahlias is to be planted, dig a trench about 15 inches 
