sentials for the successful planting and growing of a commercial walnut grove. 
VARIETY: After many years of experience in handling and growing grafted wal¬ 
nuts, we have discarded practically all varieties excepting the Vrooman Franquette for 
commercial plantings. This variety has proven to be the best yielder, highest quality, 
and most hardy tree for the Northwest, blooming late enough to insure regular crops 
cf finely filled nuts. This combination cannot be found in many sorts. 
PROPER SOIL: What is true of other commercial fruit trees of the Northwest 
is also true of the walnut. They do best in well-drained soil, clay loam and mellow 
soil of the valley prairie, upland hills, and; lower land, where the soil has good texture 
and good drainage. The most important thing to keep in view is, to avoid soggy soil 
and all white land. 
DISTANCE PLANTED: This is a matter of choice, left to the planter, as many 
successful walnut planters vary on this. It is a matter to be decided by each individual 
planter. Plantings are being made fiom 40 to 60 feet apart, but probably the best and 
most used distance, where walnuts are set alone and without fillers, is 40x40 feet. 
FILLERS USED: When planting a walnut orchard, owing to the fact that they 
are large growers, and require plenty of room when in full bearing, the planter must 
arrange his distance so that when walnuts are large they will have sufficient room to 
take care of themselves; and this means the walnuts require a greater distance than 
any other fruit trees. 
To make the land work to full capacity, where grafted walnuts are planted a long 
distance apart, we suggest the use of some good filler, and where location, soil, etc., are 
suited, the following fruit and nut trees are often used with success, bringing good div¬ 
idends to the grower from the 3rd to the 5th year. Peaches, pears, filberts and Mont¬ 
morency Large sour cherries have proven in the past to be very profitable where in¬ 
terset with grafted walnuts. Reference to our general catalogue will show the number 
of fillers required to interset at various distances. 
In the meantime, while the walnuts are coming into full bearing, and do not re¬ 
quire all the land, the filler will enable the planter to get a number of good paying crops 
before the walnuts require the room of the fillers. At that time, when walnuts require 
more room, the filler trees can be removed in part or all, and the planter has realized 
good money by doing this. 
CROPS GROWN BETWEEN ROWS: To bring in a revenue, while the orchard 
is young and a non-producer, intercropping can be practiced with walnuts, where planted 
alone, and as well where planted with any other crop. Any cultivated crop can be grown 
for four years at least, and in some cases longer, such as potatoes, berries, beans, corn, 
strawberries, etc. In using a cultivated crop, your orchard is properly worked, which 
is very necessary to trees, and at the same time it is paying to you, and you are not 
at an expense, such as clean cultivation would entail, where no crops are grown. At 
the time the orchard begins to bear, or has produced a .good growth, all intercropping 
should be stopped, and clean cultivation given to the orchard. 
CULTIVATION: Walnuts should, the same as all other fruit trees, receive the 
necessary cultivation; either clean cultivation should be given, or intercropping prac¬ 
ticed. Uncultivated crops, such as grain, hay, etc., can be grown, by leaving a strip of 
several feet along each side of tree rows, and the same to be kept cultivated. We, how¬ 
ever, do not recommend this; they will do well, yet not so well as where the entire ground 
is worked; for in this country, it is very necessary that we conserve all moisture possible 
for the benefit of the orchard. 
For the young planted grafted walnuts we suggest thorough hoeing be given them 
at least three times each season. It is well to do this at intervals of about three weeks, 
starting in the middle of May and carrying on into summer. Thisi will insure the young 
trees of securing enough moisture to make rapid growth. A young tree properly planted 
and cultivated, will, at the end of three years, grow to a height of 10 to 12 feet and will 
carry a nice top of 5 to 6 well formed limbs. 
HOW TO PLANT: In setting walnuts, the hole should be dug roomy enough to 
receive roots, without crowding, and should be set about two inches deeper than what 
they stood in the nursery row. Top soil should be put in first and the dirt gently firmed 
as it is being put in (do not ram nor pound dirt in), and see that roots are imbedded 
in a natural way, and not crowded. We contend that a hole made good and roomy, 
enough so to receive the tree in good shape without crowding, is better, for we believe 
that, by having the hole right in size, about 3 by 3 feet, trees make a better start the 
first year, and are not so liable to dry out. In pruning the roots when setting, they 
should be given each one a clean cut at ends with a sharp knife; this also applies to 
tap root. When setting walnuts in the spring, it is well to turn a bucket of water around 
the tree, after being set; this will settle the soil around the roots. There is nothing tech¬ 
nical about setting trees; only necessary to use good judgment. 
Our Filbert Trees Bear Heavily 
