A Short Course . 
By G. A. Stevens, Secretary c 
Reprinted, by Special Permission of the American Rose S 
To grow good roses requires enthusiasm and 
diligence. A lazy or only casually interested 
gardener will never succeed. 
The Weather 
Next to the grower himself, the most import¬ 
ant factor in rose growing is weather. Of weath¬ 
er, the aspect which most affects roses is the 
temperature. Roses are supposed to be hardy* 
plants, but few of them are able to survive sub¬ 
zero temperatures without damage. 
North America is divided by the rose growers’ 
viewpoint into two districts: the South, where 
zero weather never occurs, and the North, where 
zero or worse may be expected. 
Much of the following will not apply to those 
who grow roses in the South, and only relative¬ 
ly to those in the North, according to the severity 
of the winters. 
Next to temperature, sunlight is most potent. 
Upon the whole continent of North America the 
winter sunshine is powerful, far more intense 
than in any part of Europe. Thus the North has 
to contend with both cold in winter and hot sun 
in summer. The South, free from frost, experi¬ 
ences relatively less trouble from hot sunshine 
because the best rose season comes very early in 
the year before the sun attains full summer 
violence. 
Moisture is very important. Cool, rainy, or 
misty weather is ideal for roses. A hot, damp 
climate and a cold, wet one are equally bad, 
causing the roses to mildewf and ball.rj: 
Violent changes of temperature are likely to 
cause mildew. 
Cool, dry weather is good for roses if plenty 
of water is supplied to the roots; and in hot, dry 
weather both water and shade are needed to get 
the best flowers. 
High winds are bad for roses, but a gentle 
circulation of air tends to prevent mildew and 
other troubles. 
What to Do About the Weather 
In the North, plant roses where they will be 
sheltered by buildings or vegetation from cold 
and wind. A little shade through the heat of 
the day is advisable. The morning sun is no 
special benefit, and is frequently a nuisance. 
Roses require much water, and, if it is not 
provided by rainfall, it must be supplied by the 
hose or bucket. Pour water on the rose beds 
copiously when you do water; do not merely 
sprinkle. Avoid wetting the foliage if it can be 
helped. 
In the South, shelter from wind and sun is an 
advantage, and plenty of water is necessary at 
all times. 
♦“Hardy” in this connection means that the plant 
is able to withstand freezing temperatures without 
protection. 
fMildew is a disease attacking the surface of rose 
leaves and covering them with a felty gray powder 
and finally shriviling and blackening them. 
J“Ball” is a term used to describe the failure of 
flower-buds to open properly. They swell and fall 
off, or dry up, or rot on the bush. 
-4 --- 
Soil 
Heavy clay loam is best, but good roses can be 
grown in almost any kind of soil. Very light, 
sandy, or stony gardens should be made as hos¬ 
pitable to them as possible. Any soil which will 
raise good hay, corn or potatoes will raise roses. 
The drainage must be free, so that rain does 
not leave the ground spongy or soggy. Avoid 
planting roses where it is always damp, and do 
not water so often that the soil is continually 
wet. 
What to Do About Soil 
Use the best you have, whatever it is. To 
heavy clay add rotten manure, digging it in 
deeply, 18 inches is deep enough, although some 
extravagant people prepare the soil 3 feet deep. 
If clay ground is very heavy and cloddy, likely 
to accumulate in rough lumps, a light dressing 
of lime will be beneficial; but do not scatter 
lime about recklessly on general principles; it is 
not a fertilizer, and roses are not particularly 
fond of it. 
If your soil is light and fluffy, add clay if it 
can be got, or plenty of sticky cow manure. 
If it is sandy, add clay if possible, and all the 
manure, artificial or natural, that you can af¬ 
ford. 
Use plenty of fertilizer in the bottom of the 
rose bed. Rotten cow manure is best, but any 
other will do, if the best is not available. Com¬ 
mercial manures and bone meal are good, and 
should be used as directed by the manufacturers. 
Do not use chemical fertilizers unless you 
know exactly what you are doing. 
Damp spots must be drained by laying a tile 
along the bottom of the rose bed to a lower out¬ 
let. This is seldom necessary. 
Kind of Plants to Get 
Buy two-yfear-old budded plants from a de¬ 
pendable nurseryman, not from a merchant of 
worn-out “bench” roses discarded from green¬ 
houses; or from a dealer in dried-out left-overs 
and seconds. 
Ho<w Many Plants? 
Not less than three of one variety, if your 
pocketbook will stand it. 
The more plants you have of a variety, the 
better you will like it; and the garden will be 
much more uniform in appearance and produc¬ 
tion. 
Time to Buy Plants 
In the North, spring is safest, and the least 
trouble. Autumn planting is more or less risky, 
but it has the advantage that the roses are es¬ 
tablished by spring and ready to get to work at 
once. 
Plants may be bought in autumn, buried deep- 
Roses for the Living from Pe 
