26 
HILLENMEYER NURSERIES, Lexington, Kentucky 
FRUITS 
The Money-Makers Are Coming Back 
to Southern Farms and Gardens 
W ISELY, we are all again planting fruits. 
Changes during the past few years have 
shown clearly that farmers and gardeners 
who had a few bearing fruit trees were making 
a little money—or if they did not sell the fruit, 
they certainly did not have to buy at the 
store or on the market at high prices. 
So, the man who “raised his own” was 
ahead of the game any way you look 
at it. 
For many years we have given special 
attention to fruit trees and small fruit 
plants. This year we offer with great 
pride and confidence our Kentucky- 
grown trees, produced with the utmost 
care and skill, from fruiting trees of known 
parentage. Likewise, with equal pride, 
we point to our low prices for these high- 
quality trees—priced low because our 
costs have been lower. Hillenmeyer trees 
are good trees, honest trees, and sold 
direct from the nursery—not by agents 
whose commission you pay without get¬ 
ting a penny’s worth of added value in 
the stock. As we sell direct to you we do 
not ask fancy prices. 
We propagate our fruits under careful conditions, 
taking every precaution to have them true to name, for 
we believe dependability of variety is our very best 
sales argument. We guarantee every variety to be as 
described and hold ourselves ready to replace, without 
charge, any tree that accidentally proves untrue to 
name. In addition to this dependability, our trees are 
suited to near-by conditions as we test all varieties 
before offering them for sale. 
Heeling in Trees and Shrubs 
Heel in your trees as soon as received. Dig a trench deep 
enough and wide enough to take the root-system and then 
cover the roots, firming the soil so as to contact each root. If 
some of the trunk (or branches, in case of shrubs) is covered 
with soil, the protection is double. A little water applied to dry 
soil is helpful. 
Trees heeled in 
may be kept sev¬ 
eral weeks in 
perfect con¬ 
dition. 
Heeling in Fruit Trees 
Special 
Quotations 
On all quan¬ 
tity orders we will 
make special quo¬ 
tations. Let us 
help you with 
plans for an or¬ 
chard or a home 
fruit-garden, and 
estimate on your 
requirements. 
As Experienced Fruit-Growers We Suggest 
That you plan for a succession of fruit, increasing quantities where 
you expect to market or store. It is inadvisable to plant too many 
varieties in the average orchard. There is no reason why you cannot 
have fresh fruit from the time that cherries ripen in May until well 
into the winter. We will help you plan your list if you will ask us. 
That you cultivate your newly planted trees, for it is just as important 
to cultivate them as it is to cultivate a tomato or tobacco plant. 
Only after the tree has become well established should cultivation 
stop. Even then, your trees will respond to fertilization and cultiva¬ 
tion. 
That you feed young trees to promote health and vigor. Nitrate of 
soda, sulphate of ammonia, bone-meal, manures, or similar soil- 
builders applied in moderation often spell the difference between 
success and failure. Strong, vigorous trees can stand unfavorable 
weather conditions, frost, and even disease. Good soil means early 
maturity and heavy yields. 
That where space is scarce, you plant quick-maturing trees like 
Peach, Plum, and Cherry, in the center of the squares between late- 
maturing trees. The former should be taken out when the permanent 
trees begin to crowd. Don’t plant too closely. (See planting chart 
below.) 
That you renew your plantings of Peach trees every four or five years 
to keep a continued crop coming on. 
HOW TO PRUNE. In pruning Apple, Plum, Cherry, and Pear 
trees, cut the side branches to 6 to 8-inch stubs and do not leave 
more than five to a tree. See that these are distributed around the 
trunk. The Peach tree requires a little more severe pruning. One- 
year trees are simply headed to whatever height they are wanted. 
Try not to have two branches nearly opposite. They will form a bad 
crotch when the tree is older. 
Distances Apart to Plant Fruits 
APPLES. 
.30 
to 
40 
feet 
PLUM. 
. .25 
feet 
APRICOT. 
.20 
to 
25 
feet 
PEAR. 
. .25 
feet 
CHERRY (Sweet).... 
30 
feet 
QUINCE. 
.12 to 15 
feet 
CHERRY (Sour). 
.25 
to 
30 
feet 
GRAPES. 
. . 8 
feet 
PEACH. 
25 
feet 
Plants 
Rows 
BLACKBERRIES .. . . 
. 3 to 5 feet. 
.6 
to 8 
feet 
BLACK RASPBERRIES. 
. 3 feet. 
. . .6 
feet 
RED RASPBERRIES. 
. 2 to 4 feet. 
.5 
to 6 
feet 
GOOSEBERRIES. . . . 
. 4 to 5 feet. 
.5 
to 6 
feet 
CURRANTS. 
. 4 to 5 feet. 
. . .5 
feet 
STRAWBERRIES.. . . 
. 1 Yi feet. 
.3 y 2 
to 4 
feet 
ASPARAGUS. 
t H feet. 
.5 
to 6 
feet 
RHUBARB. 
. 2 feet. 
.3 
to 4 
feet 
The above distances are approximate 
93 Y ears 
That’s How Long We 
Have Grown Hillenmeyer 
Quality , True-to-Name 
Fruit Trees 
