22 
THE FOSS HEATON GLAD GARDENS, CRESTON, IOWA 
set upright, but other sizes need not be. For commercial growers an even distri¬ 
bution of planting stock in the row, and not too thick, will result in a larger percent¬ 
age of top size bulbs. 
WHY WE CULTIVATE 
One reason we cultivate is in order to destroy the weeds. The best time to get 
the weeds is when they are small, because they quickly die when exposed to the sun. 
or are easily covered up, and are much less likely to take root again than they are 
when they are larger. Large weeds rob the soil of moisture and plant food, so do 
not let weeds get large in order to pull them for the exercise. Another reason we 
cultivate is to break the soil crust. The soil must have air for the important soil 
bacteria to thrive, and it must be loose and friable to prevent a too rapid escape of 
the soil moisture. But do not cultivate just to be cultivating, unless for the two rea¬ 
sons named, as it will do no good, and may do harm. At blooming time deep culti¬ 
vating may do harm by destroying the fine network of feeder roots for the flow¬ 
ers. Cultivation at this time should be merely a scratching or raking of the surface 
crust. 
GETTING THE WEEDS WHILE THEY ARE YOUNG 
There is a tool on the market caV.ed a garden mulcher. It resembles a lawn 
mower, having revolving discs, and a sharp blade that passes just beneath the sur¬ 
face of the soil. Weeds come up ahead of the Glads, and so I pass this mulcher over 
the top of the row just as the Glad shoots are about to appear, thus destroying the 
first crop of weeds. After the Glads are up I get most of the second crop of weeds, 
if the Glads are planted single file, by passing this mulcher on each side of the row 
and as closely as possible to the plants. The weeds that are left in the row may be 
torn out, or flattened out, by using a rake with long flexible teeth, and the row? 
then ridged up with cultivator shovels. By these means hand weeding may be al¬ 
most eliminated. 
FERTILIZERS FOR GLADS 
Glads are good feeders, responding nicely to intensive culture. A rich garden 
soil that will send mammoth vegetables to the fairs will raise fine spikes of Glads. 
Nothing is finer for the soil than the supplying of plenty of humus. This is done by 
plowing under in the fall either stable manure or a green crop, such as rye or clover. 
As for the chemical fertilizers, your own particular soil needs will have to be de¬ 
termined. Your County Agent will do this for you. In general, the three elements, 
nitrogen, phosphorus,, and potassium, are necessary. Nitrogen in various forms, such 
as ammonium sulphate, aids the growth of stem and leaves. Phosphorus, or phos¬ 
phates, boosts the buds and flowers, while potassium, in the usual form of wood 
ashes, helps the bulb and the increase. Any good commercial potato fertilizer will 
have the proper proportions of these ingredients for the average soil that needs 
tuning up. The different manures have these elements also, and are probably the 
best, at least the safest fertilizers to use, as they supply the very important humus 
as well. The various chemicals named above must be applied with extreme caution. 
Overdoses will be fatal to the plants. Always follow the directions given- Most of 
these are quickly available to the plant, but the manures and green crops must be 
thoroughly incorporated in the soil by being plowed under the fall before, unless 
they are already well rotted. 
GROWING SHOW FLOWERS 
Select young bulbs, which will be high-crowned, vigorous, clean, and peppy. 
Be sure no disease is present. Determine blooming dates of each variety, and then 
plant at three ten-day intervals, at the proper time, and one before, and one after. 
Even then you may miss the great day of the show, unless you plant several dozen 
at each planting. Plow or spade under the fall before plenty of good stable manure, 
or commercial sheep manure. In good soil this usually is sufficient, although an ap¬ 
plication of super-phosphate and ammonium sulphate, or some vigoro, in the trench 
beneath the bulbs, at the rate of a pound to a hundred feet of row, will give good 
results. Plant at least five inches apart and six inches deep. Keep thoroughly 
moist at all times, but do not drown the bulbs, watering heavily once or twice a 
week, rather than a little at more frequent intervals. Keep the soil crust broken 
and the soil loose, but no deep cultivation at budding time. Stake the heavy spikes 
