86 
DOTTINGS ON THE ROADSIDE. [Chap. VI.—B. S. 
The Castillo rapids being too formidable for the 
steamer to overcome, the travellers had to shift to 
another steamer, the ‘City of Leon,’ which waited 
on the other side; but not being engaged on the 
regular transit trip, did not leave till half-past one 
o’clock on the 20th. In two hours they had safely 
passed the Toros, the last rapids on the river. Up 
to this time they had been pursued by the rains, 
which at this season of the year are not expected 
much above Grey Town. About dark they arrived 
at San Carlos, a small fort built on the point where 
Lake Nicaragua runs off into the San Juan river. 
Upwards of thirty hours had thus been occupied in 
actual steaming on the passage from Grey Town to 
San Carlos, a distance of 119 miles, or as nearly as pos¬ 
sible at the rate of four miles an hour. Here the course 
of the Central American transit runs to the westward 
across the lake, while they had to go north about. 
In canoes, which had been brought thus far on the 
deck of the steamer, they started at 10 a.m. on the 
morning of the 21st. Favoured by a breeze, they 
arrived at four p.m. at San Miguelito—merely a col¬ 
lection of substantial huts (some of them with an 
upper story), perched upon rising ground, with savana 
land stretching away inland as far as the eye could 
reach—a most beautiful scene. This is the Ultima Thule 
of civilization in Chontales, San Carlos being simply a 
fort. From this point Captain Pirn decided on journey¬ 
ing overland through the interior of the country, so that 
Mr. Paul might have the fullest opportunity of mak¬ 
ing himself thoroughly acquainted with the district; 
