138 
D0TTINGS ON THE ROADSIDE. [Ciiap. IX.-B. S. 
munity responding. Her voice was extremely un¬ 
pleasant, and a nasal twang which, like most Nica¬ 
raguans, she put on when singing, was not calculated 
to soften it. The same religious observance was gone 
through the next morning, long before dawn, and 
even if we had intended to sleep longer, it would have 
been quite impossible to do so. I was much amused 
at there having been another observer besides my¬ 
self of the strange scene, for, when we started, a very 
clever green parrot (Chrysotis auripalliatus), a species 
peculiar to Central America, mimicked the old lady’s 
chanting to perfection, and as I saw her feeding and 
fondling the bird, I presume that she did not mind 
being noticed. 
Granada, where we arrived on the 28th of May, 
may be termed the real capital of the republic, 
though at present, by the jealousy of local political 
parties, not enjoying its natural advantages. It is 
charmingly situated on the shores of Lake Nica¬ 
ragua, and maintains a direct steam communication 
with the Atlantic Ocean by way of the San Juan 
river. Almost entirely destroyed by the American 
filibusters, as Walker’s party was termed ultimately, 
or “ Saviours of the Country,” as it was when first 
called in,—the town is now fast recovering, and 
new houses are being built on the ruins of the 
old. Even the churches, which suffered severely 
from being used as fortresses during the siege, 
are being repaired. There had been rather heavy 
and continuous earthquakes a short time previous 
to my arrival, and light, temporary sheds had 
