LITTLE SILVER, N. J. 
(13) 
Dahlias of Quality 
THE WAY TO GRO^X^ DAHLIAS-Continued 
Dahlias should have the support of strong stakes, and these should be set previous to 
setting out the plants or tubers. If tubers are used a hole sufficiently large to accommodate 
them without crowding should be opened to a depth of six inches, into which the tuber 
is to be layed flat, with the crown about two inches away from the stake, and with the 
sprout side uppermost. Cover with two inches of fine soil and finish filling in, as the plant 
grows. It plants are used, they should be set deep enough to bring the lower set of leaf 
buds just under the surface, when the hole is filled up, so that in case any are cut down by 
worms, they will come from below the surface of the ground, and not be lost. If the plants 
have been purchased from a distance, unpack them soon as they are received, and stand 
them (just as they are) in a shallow pan of water for a few minutes to soak the soil on 
the roots then place them in shade until evening, when they are to be set into the garden. 
When setting the plants, it is well to leave a saucer like depression around each plant, into 
which a half pint of water is to be gently poured, and leave them thus until morning, when 
the filling must be completed, using line, dry soil for the purpose. The plants having been 
in close confinement during their journey from the grower, have become more or less ten- 
der, and must be hardened somewhat, before they are exposed to the full strength of the 
sunlight. There is nothing better for their protection during the hardening period than 
a 1 “ 01 Quait peach basket turned over them, during the heat of ' the day, for a period 
of three or four days. The openings between the slats of the basket will admit just the 
right amount of light and air to harden the plants off, while they are becoming established 
in their new quarters. 
Good cultivation is everything with dahlias, particularly in a dry season. No matter 
how suitable your soil may be, nor how well it has been prepared, if good cultivation is 
neglected, the best plants or tubers in the world will not be a success. Never allow the 
ground to become baked hard, but keep it finely pulverized with hoe or steel rake. Culti¬ 
vate after rain, as soon as the ground is dry enough to work. In the early part of the sea¬ 
son, or until the plants begin to set buds, the cultivation may be done to a depth of two 
or three inches without harm to the roots, but after that period, the ground should not be 
stirred deeper than one inch, as the feeding roots are now spread over a wide circle near 
the surface and deep cultivation will destroy them and do much harm. 
Insects. —Sucking insects are responsible for more failures than is generally supposed, 
particularly the Thrips. This tiny insect works in tips of the plants sucking the juices out 
of the unfolded leaves. Its presence is not noted nor suspected until the leaves unfold. 
If the attack is slight there will be a few blister like spots noticed on the leaves, but if 
severe the whole leaf will be gnarled, twisted and distorted, and some with but little more 
than the mid rib of the leaf remaining. The plant, in most cases stops growing, and if 
nothing is done to free it from the attack, it will harden up, and make no further progress 
the remainder of the season. Thrips as a rule do not attack the plants until late in June 
or early July, at which time the plants should be kept under close observation and at the 
first sign of the insects work, spraying with Agripax, Pyrethrol or Wilson’s O. K., spray 
should be done at once, applying it with a spray pump with pressure strong enough to 
force the spraying material well into the tips of the plant and its branches. About three 
applications at five day intervals is usually sufficient to rid the plants of this scourge to 
young dahlia plants, as their period of attack terminates around the first of August. 
Leaf Hoppers are less damaging to plants than Thrips, but much more difficult to con¬ 
trol, as they work on the under side of the leaves, and hop off quickly when sprays or dust 
insecticides are applied, making it most difficult to hit them. Tobacco dust blown under the 
leaves will do some good, as will other contact insecticides, but whatever is used must hit 
the hopper to be of any effect whatever. Tobacco stems, or dust applied around the plants 
as a mulch will usually keep the hopper under control, and may prevent attack altogether. 
Chemical Fertilizers. —Never mix chemical fertilizers with the soil around the plants 
at the time of planting. After several years experimenting with high powered fertilizer 
applied just previous to, or at the time of planting. (I am firmly convinced more plants are 
injured and brought to a standstill from this cause than any other one thing. It must be 
remembered that the feeding roots of the small plants are very tender, and to subject them 
to a direct contact with high powered fertilizers is almost certain to kill the tender feeding 
roots completely, resulting in what appears to be a stunted plant. The destruction of the 
feeding roots may occur from other causes, also but whatever the cause the results are 
just the same. High powered chemical fe"tilizers should never be applied until the plants 
become well established, and growing thriftily, when a small handful may be applied to 
each plant, scattered in a wide radius around them, keeping at least 8 inches away from 
the stem of the plant, and when so scattered it should be lightly raked or hoed in to pre¬ 
vent it washing away in case of heavy rainfall, immediately following the application. Ni¬ 
trates have scant place in dahlia culture, therefore the nitrate content of the fertilizer 
should be as low as possible. Fertilizers containing around 2 per cent of nitrogen, 8 to 10 
per cent Phosphoric Acid and 10 to 12 per cent Potash, make an ideal fertilizer for dah¬ 
lias. It supplies them with a well balanced ration that not only produces very high quality 
exhibition blooms with firm petals, but also produces the very best of tubers that are well 
filled with starch content, that will carry them through the storage period in the best pos¬ 
sible condition. 
In the absence of a suitable chemical fertilizer, we find Canadian hard wood ashes and 
16 per cent acid phosphate mixed in the proportion of 1 part acid phosphate to three parts 
of the wood ashes produces most excellent results, and can be applied two or three times 
during the growing season at the rate of a large handful to each plant without danger of 
doing any harm. 
If fertilizers seem necessary during the growing season, either of those mentioned above 
may be applied with every assurance of good results. Make the first application around the 
