due to the fact that the pollen from one flower is naturally distributed over many others, resulting in a 
natural crossing of varieties, giving new seed an inheritance of some of the characteristics and habits of 
all that has gone before in its parent plants. 
However, it is just this uncertainty that makes the growing of Dahlias from seeds so interesting and 
there is always the possibility of developing a new variety which will be superior to any we have as yet 
discovered. Many new varieties are produced from seed each year that are well worth while and there is 
considerable pleasure in discovering them. In the bulletin issued by the many Dahlia Societies' and in the 
magazines devoted to flower culture, there is much argument and discussion about whether better Dahlia 
seedlings come from seed that are artificially, or hand crossed, or whether the best seedlings! come from 
seed which are grown where the crossing or pollenization is produced naturally by the pollen being carried 
from one flower to another by the wind, bees, butterflies, or other insects, and the discussion still rages. 
We take some seed by experimenting with hand crossing or pollenization between flowers we like, 
trying to produce the best characteristics of both in the seed, and we take some seed from our best flowers, 
relying upon the natural crossing and pollenization by the wind, bees, etc.; and while the artificial crossing 
is interesting, we find where we exercise great care in the selection of the parent plants, which we believe 
is the great es'sential in producing the best seed, that the result from natural crossing is entirely satisfac¬ 
tory, and, where we have selected our own seed, and where we have bought seed from reliable growers 
produced naturally, we find that those results are entirely satisfactory. While we will continue to experi¬ 
ment with artificial crossing, getting a great deal of satisfactoin out of the experiment, we will continue 
to rely upon seed produced through natural crossing as well. 
The seed which we offer for distribution is either grown by ourselves and selected carefully or seed 
grown for us by reliable growers in whom we have the greatest confidence. We plant from both of the 
varieties of Dahlia seed we offer. It is hard to tell which gives the best results. We find them both satis¬ 
factory. No experiment with the flowers in your garden will give you more agreeable surprises or pleasure 
than your Dahlia from seed. Try them in 1934. 
Instructions for Planting Dahlia Seed 
Dahlia seed should be planted in shallow boxes which have been filled three-quarters' full of sandy leaf 
mould or any good garden soil, just like you .use for sowing cabbage or tomato seed, in March or April, 
preferably for this latitude. Smooth the surface of the soil over with a smooth board. Then place the seed 
about an inch apart each way or place the seed in little furrows about 1J4 to 2 inches apart in the earth 
made by passing the sharp edge of a ruler or other similar tool on the surface and cover seed with an 
eighth to a quarter of an inch of sharp sand and earth equally mixed, just as you would cabbage or tomato 
seed. Place the seeds in a warm, moist place indoors and see that the soil is not permitted to become dry. 
Do not place outside unless you are in a frostless belt. 
To preserve moisture, glass may be put over the boxes or flats, but if the sun shines on them, they 
should be protected from the sun by a single sheet of paper over the glass, otherwise too great a heat will 
develop between the glass and the soil and your plants will dry up. Remove the paper at night or in dark 
weather. Some seed will sprout in four or five days, some in ten days and they will continue to sprout 
for two months. Many say the slow sprouting seeds produce the finest and best Dahlias. 
When the seeds are up and about one inch high, take them out and transplant them either to another 
box or flat, spaced three or four inches apart, or put them into three inch pots. Do this without interfering 
with the other seeds' by using a sharp, pointed stick, driving it down into the soil next to each seedling 
and lift same up. In the pots they can be kept growing slowly until ready to go in the open, and when 
planted in the open, they should be planted about one and one-half feet apart, allowing two or three feet 
between the rows. Transplant to the open garden only when danger of frost is over. 
When transplanting to the open ground, set the plant so that it will be one and one-half to two inches 
lower than it was in the pot or flat, then cultivate the same as you cultivate other Dahlias, but do not ftake 
and do not disbud. This will enable you to observe the habits of the plant under natural conditions. Those 
plants which do not show themselves with merit should be immediately chopped out and this will give 
plenty of room for the plants' which are worth while. 
If these instructions are followed, practically all your seeds will make large plants that will produce 
a profusion of blooms the first year. They will make good clumps of roots which should be lifted after the 
plants are cut down by frost. Mark each clump with a number and write a description of its habits' of 
growth, flowering, stem, colors, size and variety for future reference. Do not hesitate to discard any 
Dahlia not worthwhile. Store the clump, from seed in a dry frost-proof ventilated cellar and after marking 
it is a good plan the first year to wrap the new clumps you decide to keep in newspapers and store in 
boxes. If your roots produce true three years without reverting or changing your new Dahlia will likely 
continue to prove satisfactory. For prices see bottom next page. 
“Good Will Special” (Page 19) Includes Orders for Dahlia Seeds 
o 
* * * * * “The Bonnie Blue”* I bought of you was a beauty. * * * * 
Mitchell, Ind., Nov. 28, 1933 
*Even our cheap Dahlias are beautiful. K. D. G. 
KENDAL DAHLIA GARDENS, IN C.—Sandusky, Ohio 
32 
