J. K. Alexander, E. Bridgewater, Massachusetts E. Bridgewater Dahlia Gardens 
History of 
The Dahlia is a native of Mexico, where it grew 
wild, and in its single state. Earliest history 
dates back to 1657, when it was called Acoctli by 
the Aztec Indians. Later the name was changed 
to Georgiana, after Professor Georgi of St. Peters¬ 
burg, which name is still used in some of the foreign 
catalogues. It was again changed to Dahlia, in 
honor of Dr. Andrew Dahl, a Swedish botanist. 
The Dahlia was first cultivated in the Botanic 
Gardens, at Madrid, Spain, in 1789, and at about 
the same time was introduced into England by the 
Marchioness of Bute. 
Dahlia Variabilis, from which most of the com¬ 
mon or Show Dahlias have originated, was single 
in its wild state. The first double forms appeared 
the Dahlia 
in 1814 and were credited to M. Donkelaar, of the 
Botanical Gardens of Belgium. The Pompon form 
appeared about 1858, followed by the Decorative, 
the origin of which is not clearly defined, but prob¬ 
ably dates back some 40 or 50 years. Dahlia Jaurezi, 
the first of Cactus Dahlia, was discovered in Juxphaor, 
Mexico, in 1872, by J. T. Vanderberg, and named 
Juarezi in honor of President Jarez of Mexico. It was 
sent by Vanderberg to an English florist, who exhibited 
it in England in 1880. 
Dahlia tubers or bulbs were used as a food in 
Mexico, and at one time in France. It was at¬ 
tempted to introduce them into cultivation in all 
Europe as a food for either man or cattle, but the 
taste was found nauseous to European palates. 
The Culture o£ the Dahlia 
Success Will Follow If You 
LOCATION. The Dahlia is not as particular as 
most of our flowers, and will succeed under a great 
many adverse conditions. There are, however, cer¬ 
tain locations where Dahlias seem to outdo them¬ 
selves. An open sunny location seems to favor 
them at all times. Dahlias do well on high and 
low land, on hillsides or perfectly level land, giv¬ 
ing good results in each location. 
I find Dahlias are particularly adapted for sea¬ 
shore use, and not only do well, but thrive, for the 
reason of the moisture, and principally the heavy 
dews which collect during the nights. 
I also find that many varieties do well in partial 
shade, producing fully as good flowers as they do 
in the hot sun, especially for exhibition purposes. 
Dahlias will grow and do equally well in any 
kind of soil. I have sand, gravel, heavy and light 
loam, low land and hills, and find very little differ¬ 
ence, as far as the number of flowers are concerned, 
the only difference being that in sand and gravel 
they form a short, sturdy, compact plant, and in 
heavy loam and low land they grow tall and rank, 
blossoming about a week later than those planted 
at the same time in sandy soil. 
PREPARATION. The soil should be thorough¬ 
ly cultivated; ploughed or spaded 8 to 10 inches 
deep, well pulverized and thoroughly worked over, 
thus affording an opportunity for rapid expansion, 
and making an easy path for the tiny rootlets. To 
secure exceptional results, have your soil ploughed 
or spaded in the fall, or as early as practicable in 
the spring; then just before planting have soil thor¬ 
oughly ploughed or spaded again. 
FERTILIZER. Fertilization is one of the most 
important factors, to be successful with Dahlias. 
We all know that a growing plant, the Dahlia for 
instance, requires and takes from the soil certain 
properties; and in order to keep the soil in correct 
proportion, the materials the Dahlia takes from 
the soil must be restored. This must be done by 
fertilization. You can use dressing (either horse, 
cow, sheep or hen), or chemicals, or any commer¬ 
cial fertilizer rich in nitrogen, potash, and phos¬ 
phoric acid. Fish and potash, acid phosphate in 
the form of bone flour, or sulphate of potash, are 
also very effective. My system of fertilization— 
every other fall I give my land a top-dressing of 
stable manure, ploughing under and alternate with 
lime, using this as a top-dressing. 
The manure restores the properties necessary, 
and makes the soil light and mellow, keeps it from 
being heavy and caking, while lime has the same 
tendency and keeps the soil sweet. When plant¬ 
ing in the spring I use commercial fertilizers ex¬ 
clusively (a complete potato fertilizer and ground 
bonemeal in equal proportions). Every fourth or 
fifth year I make a fall planting of winter rye, then 
turn under in the spring, planting the bulbs with 
commercial fertilizers. 
An application of manure (either in liquid or 
ordinary form), several times throughout the grow- 
Observe These Instructions 
ing season proves very beneficial, furnishing new 
material for the growing plants and insuring you 
the very best results. 
TIME OF PLANTING. The time for planting 
Dahlias varies according to the locality: whether 
your spot is sheltered or open, early or lateness of 
the season, and the times when the general crop of 
flower is desired. Dahlias can be planted any 
time after danger of frost is over, and under ordi¬ 
nary conditions will blossom in from 6 to 8 weeks 
after they have been planted. It is always best to 
wait until the ground becomes thoroughly warmed. 
PLANTING. Plants bulb in hills or drills, lay¬ 
ing flat down, 6 inches deep. Do not stand the 
bulb on end. If you stand the bulb on end, having 
the sprout near the top of the ground, all the new 
Queen Wilhelmina (See page 22). 
