J. K. Alexander, E. Bridgewater, Massachusetts E. Bridgewater Dahlia Gardens 
As you cut and remove your flowers, 
your plant sends forth new flowering 
stalks from the bottom of the plant; the 
more flowers you cut, the more will 
grow. 
Disbudding is more generally used for 
flowers for exhibition purposes. When 
wishing the largest flower possible, for 
exhibition purposes, you can disbud 
every side shoot down the entire length 
of your stalk, forcing all plant life into 
the one flower, thus growing one flower 
of gigantic size; this disbudding in 
addition to forcing with manure (taken 
up under forcing) insures you much 
greater success at exhibitions. 
Anyone can grow Dahlias of exhibi¬ 
tion quality if they will digest these 
remarks, study plant requirments and 
then act accordingly. 
After your plant has been blossom¬ 
ing continually and flowers commence to grow 
smaller, then is the logical and proper time to 
fertilize. Apply any good fertilizer broadcast, 
or any kind of manure available, but it is bet¬ 
ter to make two moderate applications then 
too much at one time. 
FORCING. To produce the finest flowers for 
exhibition purposes: Plant 3 to 5 feet apart, 
using a liberal amount of manure or fertilizer; 
cultivate frequently; apply fertilizer or manure, 
broadcast or liquid form, at each or every other 
hoeing, and disbud. Nitrate of soda proves very 
effective for forcing. Apply in liquid or crys¬ 
tal form when plants are in bud; make applica¬ 
tions often, but do not use too much at a time. 
Nitrate of soda is very powerful and if too much 
is used it will burn up your plants or force them 
to such an over-growth that the roots will decay 
during the winter. Apply nitrate of soda in 
crystal form on top of the ground, or in liquid 
form, using one tablespoonful of nitrate of soda 
crystals to a gallon of water, using sprayer or 
watering can. 
When the flower buds appear, only one bud 
should be allowed to come to maturity, ena¬ 
bling each branch to produce one exceptionally 
fine, perfect flower. The flowers, for quality, must 
not ’ be allowed to receive the drenching rains or 
scalding sun when nearing full bloom and should 
be protected from such. 
It is always advisable to cut flowers that are to 
be exhibited as late as possible at night when the 
dew is on them, placing them in water and keeping 
them as cool as possible over night, thereby enabling 
them to withstand handling, packing and transporta¬ 
tion. 
WATERING. Although I wish it understood 
that I do not believe in watering, and find from ex¬ 
perience that it is unnecessary, a judicious water¬ 
ing of your plants proves very helpful. Watering 
plants in beds or various places, especially near 
trees, on lawns, along walks, etc., proves beneficial 
but when you water, do it thoroughly. It is that 
constant surface sprinkling every day that causes 
surface roots and soft growth, that I do not advise. 
A thorough soaking once or twice a week during a 
drought, with the soil stirred the following day, is 
an excellent thing where water and time is at 
hand. 
However for commercial purposes we receive better 
results by not watering. 
HARVESTING. The harvesting and packing for 
winter is very important, upon which depends your 
future success. Should you lose your Dahlias dur¬ 
ing the winter, you will be obliged to buy new 
ones in the spring; therefore, these suggestions are 
important. 
Dahlias should be harvested shortly after their 
foliage has been killed by frost. I find from ex¬ 
perience that as soon as the frost kills the foliage, 
the strength of the stalk recedes back into the bulbs. 
By digging two or three days after y<pur plant has 
been killed by frost, your clumps are in a perfectly 
dormant condition, having no sprouts, keeping per- 
Alight, Cactus Dahlia (See description, page 12). 
To obtain the largest and most perfect flowers, 
only the best and largest buds should be allowed 
to mature; the others being taken off, enabling the 
full strength to develop those into exhibition blooms. 
DISBUDDING. Some varieties of Dahlias re¬ 
quire thinning and disbudding to produce the best 
flowers. Varieties having an excessive amount of 
foliage and small growth should have a consider¬ 
able part of their branches removed, while those 
having more buds than can be properly developed 
or matured should be disbudded. The operation in 
no way endangers the plants and anyone can do 
it. Thin and disbud if necessary, moderately or 
severely as conditions seem to require. 
Taking a budded stalk or branch, you will note 
the large or first bud on the stalk, and also, that 
at each leaf all the way down the stalk new shoots 
or bud-stalks form; these in turn produce buds and 
flowering stalks, which over-top the first bud. The 
first bud on every stalk is always the largest :ind 
produces the largest and best flower, ordinarily. 
Before the first flower is in full blossom, the first 
two side shoots have formed buds and burst into 
flowers. These in turn become passe, to be replaced 
by flowering shoots from the set next below, or the 
second pair of side shoots. 
On most varieties the first flower has a short, stiff 
stem; we disbud to lengthen the stem and to secure 
larger flowers. 
The proper way to disbud: When the first bud is 
small the first set of side shoots should be removed 
with a sharp knife. This forces all the plant life 
that under ordinary conditions would have devel¬ 
oped the first two side shoots, into the first bud, 
making the first flower much larger and giving it a 
good long stem. Removing the first set of shoots 
also forces ahead the second set and they in turn 
burst into flower. 
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