TO OUR FRIENDS AND CUSTOMERS: The picture on the front 
cover of this catalogue was taken on T. P. Littlepage’s place near Bowie, 
Maryland, fall 1932. Mr. C. F. Walker, of Cleveland Heights, Ohio, President 
of the Northern Nut Growers’ Association, years 1932 and 1933, is standing 
in the foreground. The tree is of the Stabler variety. Looking close at this 
picture you will be able to see the large crop of nuts on the tree. 
Our trees are well grown, healthy and well rooted due to root pruning 
and transplanting the trees in order to improve the root system which makes 
the trees easier to transplant and more sure of living. 
My Father was engaged in the nut tree business all his life. We came 
north to our present location, year 1912, and have since been in this business 
of growing northern nut trees. 
We are always interested in promising nuts our customers may know of. 
We have a letter from a customer in Hanna, La., saying they are enjoying 
the nuts from their black walnut trees. We are glad to have definite infor¬ 
mation of the trees bearing in the State of Louisiana. 
We desire to give our customers the best for a fair cost to them. We do 
not make much on these trees as it costs a lot to grow them. 
We invite your correspondence and solicit your orders with every con¬ 
fidence our trees will please you. 
Respectfully, 
M. M. JONES. 
Suggestions 
VISITORS. We are always glad to welcome visitors who are interested 
in nut trees. The best time to see the trees in bearing is in the late summer. 
English walnuts and filberts ripen early in September. Black walnuts, shag- 
barks, pecans and heartnuts ripen in October. 
WHEN TO PLANT. Our hardy Pennsylvania Grown Trees may be 
planted successfully either fall or spring. We do not ship trees until they 
are perfectly dormant which is usually from October 15 to the latter part 
of May, depending on the season. We can usually supply dormant trees from 
our tree cellar until about the 15th of June, but we do not recommend plant¬ 
ing this late. Full planting instructions sent with order of trees. 
DISTANCE FOR PLANTING. Pecans and black walnut 50 to 60 feet 
apart; English walnuts 40 to 50 feet apart; filberts 15 to 20 feet apart. 
Hickories 40 feet apart. 
PLANT ONLY BUDDED OR GRAFTED TREES. Plant only the im¬ 
proved varieties of nut trees to insure your getting the best kinds of nuts 
available at the present time. To grow trees true to type and variety they 
must be budded or grafted the same as fruit trees. You would not think 
of buying a seedling apple tree. Likewise when you can get fine varieties 
of nut trees bearing large, excellent nuts for northern culture it does not 
seem to be worth the difference to buy cheaper seedling trees and take a 
chance on the type nut the trees will produce. By grafting nut trees we take 
the scions from bearing trees and therefore the young trees come into bear¬ 
ing sooner than the seedling trees. 
BALLING AND BURLAPPING. We have been asked quite fre¬ 
quently the advantage of digging nut trees with a ball of earth. Nut 
trees, as we grow them, can be transplanted successfully without this added 
expense. To dig the trees with a ball of earth large enough to accommodate 
the root system of the trees ranging in height from three to six feet tall 
takes a ball of earth weighing from 100 to 400 pounds or more if the roots 
are to be fairly well protected. We do not urge upon our customers this 
extra expense because it is not necessary. In view of this, however, should 
you desire trees balled with earth, we can do it for the extra cost of labor, etc. 
FERTILIZING NUT TREES. To correctly fertilize the nut tree it is 
important to know how t.he different elements necessary for a well balanced 
fertilizer re-act. A fertilizer for nut trees on most soils should contain 
nitrogen, phosphate and potash. It is found that phosphate and nitrogen 
influence tree growth, the yield, filling qualities and size of the nut, and pot- 
