J. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts l.ast Bridgewater Dahlia Cardens 
History of the Dahlia 
The Dahlia is a native of Mexico, where it grew 
wild, and in its single state. Earliest history 
dates back to 1657, when it was called Acoctli by 
the Aztec Indians. Later the name was changed 
to Georgiana, after Professor Georgi of St. Peters¬ 
burg, which name is still used in some of the 
foreign catalogues. It was again changed to Dah¬ 
lia, in honor of Dr. Andrew Dahl, a Swedish 
botanist. 
The Dahlia was first cultivated in the Botanic 
Gardens, at Madrid, Spain, in 1879, and at about 
the same time was introduced into England by the 
Marchioness of Bute. 
Dahlia Variabilis. from which most of the com¬ 
mon or Show Dahlias have originated, was single 
in its wild state. The first double forms appeared 
in lli dltftd to M. Donkelaar, of the 
nica] Garden "i Belgium. The Pompon form 
appeared about 1858 followed by the Decorative, 
the origin of which is not dearly defined, but prob¬ 
ably dates back one i" "i 60 years. Dahlia 
Jaurezi, the first of (’actus Dahlia, was discovered yJP 
in Juxphaor, Mexico, in 1872, by J. T. Vanderberg, 
and named Juarezi in honor of President Juarez 
of Mexico. It was sent by Vanderberg to an 
English florist, who exhibited it in England in 
1880. 
Dahlia tubers or bulbs were used as a food in 
Mexico, and at one time in France. It was at¬ 
tempted to introduce them into cultivation in all 
Europe as a food for either man or cattle, but the 
taste was found nauseous to European palates. 
The Culture of the Dahlia 
Success Will Follow If You Observe These Instructions 
LOCATION. The Dahlia is not as particular as 
most of our flowers, and will succeed under a great 
many adverse conditions. There are, however, cer¬ 
tain locations where Dahlias seem to outdo them¬ 
selves. An open sunny location seems to favor 
them at all times. Dahlias do well on high and 
low land, on hillsides or perfectly level land, giv¬ 
ing good results in each location. 
I find Dahlias are particularly adapted for sea¬ 
shore use, and not only do well, but thrive, for the 
reason of the moisture, and principally the heavy 
dews which collect during the nights. 
I also find that many varieties do well in partial 
shade, producing fully as good flowers as they do 
in the hot sun, especially for exhibition purposes. 
Dahlias will grow and do equally well in any 
kind of soil. I have sand, gravel, heavy and light 
loam, lew land and hills, and find very little differ¬ 
ence, as far as the number of flowers are concerned, 
the only difference being that in sand and gravel 
they form a short, sturdy, compact plant, and in 
heavy loam and low land they grow tall and rank, 
blossoming about a week later than those planted 
at the same time in sandy soil. 
PREPARATION. The soil should be thorough¬ 
ly cultivated; ploughed or spaded 8 to 10 inches 
deep, well pulverized and thoroughly worked over, 
thus affording an opportunity for rapid expansion, 
and making an easy path for the tiny rootlets. 
To secure exceptional results, have your soil 
ploughed or spaded in the fall, or as early as prac¬ 
ticable in the spring; then just before planting 
have soil thoroughly ploughed or spaded again. 
FERTILIZER. Fertilization is one of the most 
important factors, to be successful with Dahlias. 
We all know that a growing plant, the Dahlia for 
instance, requires and takes from the soil certain 
properties ; and in order to keep the soil in correct 
proportion, the materials the Dahlia takes from 
the soil must be restored. This must be done by 
fertilization. You can use dressing (either horse, 
cow, sheep or hen), or chemicals, or any commer¬ 
cial fertilizer rich in nitrogen, potash, ammonia, 
and phosphoric acid. Fish and potash, acid phos¬ 
phate in the form of bone flour, or sulphate of 
potash, are also very effective. My system of fer¬ 
tilization—every other fall I give my land a top¬ 
dressing of stable manure, ploughing under and 
alternate with lime, using this as a top-dressing. 
The manure restores the properties necessary, 
and makes the soil light and mellow, keeps it from 
being heavy and caking, while lime has the same 
tendency and keeps the soil sweet. When plant¬ 
ing in the spring I use commercial fertilizers ex¬ 
clusively (a complete potato fertilizer and ground 
bonemeal in equal proportions). Every fourth or 
fifth year I make a fall planting of winter rye, 
then turn under in the spring, planting the bulbs 
with commercial fertilizers. 
An application of manure (either in liquid or 
ordinary form), several times throughout the grow¬ 
ing season proves very beneficial, furnishing new 
material for the growing plants and insuring you 
the very best results. 
TIME OF PLANTING. The time for planting 
Dahlias varies according to the locality; whether 
your spot is sheltered or open, early or lateness of 
the season, and the times when the general crop of 
flower is desired. Dahlias can be planted any 
time after danger of frost is over, and under or¬ 
dinary conditions will blossom in from 6 to 8 
weeks after they have been planted. It is always, 
best to wait until the ground becomes thorough¬ 
ly warmed. 
PLANTING. Plant bulbs in hills or drills, lay¬ 
ing flat down, 6 inches deep. Do not stand the 
bulb on end. If you stand the bulb on end, having 
the sprout near the top of the ground, all the new 
Queen Wilhrlmln* (K#* pair* 24). 
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