East Bridgewater Dahlia Gardens J. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts 
keeping 1 perfectly all winter and sending forth 
sprouts in the spring, which is the proper time. 
Dahlias may be dug with fork, spade or plow. 
In digging or harvesting the clumps great care 
should be taken. Dig them and dig very carefully; 
do not pull them up. You have large clusters of 
bulbs or clumps ; each bulb has a neck, which rs 
the small portion between the bulb and where it 
joins the stalk. The clumps should be dug or lifted 
carefully, so as not to break the necks of the bulbs. 
If you crack, girdle or break the necks sometimes 
they will dry up, other times' decay. However, 
when the clumps are divided, the bulbs with broken 
necks are weak and not as good and it requires 
longer for the bulbs to become established before 
they commence to grow after they are planted in 
the ground. After removing the clumps, shake 
gently to remove the soil that would naturally 
fall off. Cut off tops within two or three inches 
above tops of clumps, allowing them to be ex¬ 
posed to the sun and air for only an hour or two. 
Do not allow them to stay out two or three days 
to dry up, then wonder why they are withered and 
fail to sprout. Pack in a cool, frost-proof place 
where extremes of temperature may be avoided— 
a place having an average temperature of about 
45 degrees. Do not cover or pack in any material 
or with any substance. Cork, sawdust, shavings, 
coal ashes, sand or earth, all hold and retain a 
dampness or moisture which is unnatural, making 
it too close, compact and damp, causing the clumps 
to start to mildew or decay. Would you pack 
your potatoes in any of the above? Simply pack 
clumps one on top of the other, placing each 
clump upside-down. Undoubtedly you are aware 
that the Dahlia stalk is hollow and that this hollow 
contains a watery substance or acid. If you pack 
your clumps with the stalks up, the acid will flow 
back intothe crown of the clumps, causing decay, 
whereas, if you turn your clumps upside down the 
acid must flow out, and clumps will remain in a 
perfectly dormant condition. Pack clumps upside 
down in boxes or barrels, packing one on top of 
the other. Dahlias in an old-fashioned cellar will 
keep first-class without any cover¬ 
ing ; in a cellar having a cement 
bottom or heat, the boxes or barrels 
should be lined with heavy paper 
and covered with paper or burlap. 
Covering with paper or burlap ex¬ 
cludes the air and preserves a more 
even temperature. In heated places 
the circulation of air and heat causes 
the bulbs to shrivel and dry up ; a 
covering of this kind prevents the 
roots from shriveling. 
DIVISION OF CLUMPS. Al¬ 
though I divide clumps all winter, 
it is because of the number of clumps 
I have to divide; I recommend that 
the amateur wait until spring before 
dividing. Dahlias keep during the 
winter much better in clump form. 
In the spring the clumps commence 
to send out sprouts, which aid in 
dividing properly. To divide, use a 
sharp knife. Separate, leaving each 
bulb separate, first dividing the 
clump in half, then dividing to one 
bulb. Plant only one bulb in a hill; 
never plant more than two bulbs. 
In dividing, great care should be 
taken and a portion of the crown or 
stalk should be left on each bulb. 
It is on the crown that the sprout 
starts, and if the bulb has no crown, 
it is worthless. 
SIZE OF BULBS. The size of the 
bulb or tuber does not in any way 
designate the size or quality of the 
flower. Some varieties of Dahlias 
always produce very small bulbs, 
while other varieties make large 
ones. Do not consider small bulbs 
worthless, for they are equally as 
good and in many cases better than Dahlia 
large ones. Medium and small sized bulbs more 
often produce the finest and highest colored flow¬ 
ers, and in many cases the best and most effective 
plants. The only requisite of a Dahlia bulb is: 
Be sure that your bulb has one or two eyes or 
sprouts, whether large or small, and with proper 
cultivation success is generally assured. A clump, 
root, bulb, or division of a clump, pot-root, cut¬ 
ting, sprout, and even a Dahlia seed, will grow 
and blossom, all equally well. It is not the size, 
but the care and cultivation—cultivation is the 
principal requirement of the Dahlia. 
CONCLUSION. There are no set rules to follow 
invariably by all or even by any one grower year 
after year. In fact, each soil, location, climate or 
season, may call for different treatment. Study 
your plants ; watch them as they develop; try all 
experiments along lines in harmony with nature’s 
laws. Success with Dahlias is the same as with 
anything else; do everything in moderation; ex¬ 
cess in any direction is unwise. In many locations 
conditions are so favorable that Dahlias grow to 
perfection with practically no attention. So it is 
with season":—some years Dahlias do well the entire 
season, but there is no reason why Dahlias should 
not be grown successfully year after year. My 
methods of cultivation are simple and easily fol¬ 
lowed, the treatment and requirements are so 
simple, there is no reason why you should not be 
successful with your Dahlias. The Dahlia Is one ot 
the easiest plants to grow and will produce more 
flowers than any other plant in the garden, if 
properly cared for. 
WILL WANT MORE FLOWERS LATER. 
Pittston, Pa., May 4th, 1918. 
J. K. Alexander, 
Dear Sir:—I am pleased to tell you the box of 
bulbs arrived this A. M., and I found them to be 
in perfect condition and very nice bulbs. I notice 
you sent an extra Queen Emma, for which I wish 
to thank you. I shall want more flowers from 
you later. MRS. J. J. BRYDEN, 
36 Swallow St. 
Clump, Showing Proper Method of Dividing. 
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