East Bridgewater Dahlia Gardens J . K. Alexander , East Bridgewater f Massachusetts 
History of 
the Dahlia 
The Dahlia is a native of Mexico, where 
they grew wild, and in their single state. 
Earliest history dates back to 1657, when it 
was called Acoctli by the Aztec Indians. 
Later the name was changed to Georgiana, 
after Prof. Georgi of St. Petersburg, which 
name is still used in some of the foreign 
catalogues. It was again changed to Dahlia, 
in honor of Dr. Andrew Dahl, a Swedish 
botanist. 
The Dahlia was first cultivated in the 
Botanic Gardens, at Madrid, Spain, in 1789, 
and at about the same time was introduced 
into England by the Marchioness of Bute. 
Dahlia Variabilis, from which most of the 
common or Show Dahlias have originated, 
was single in its wild state. The first double 
forms appeared in 1814 and are credited to 
M. Donkelaar, of the Botanical Gardens of 
Belgium. The Pompon form appeared about 
1858, followed by the Decorative, the origin 
of which is not clearly defined, but probably 
dates back some forty or fifty years. Dahlia 
Juarezi, the first Cactus Dahlia, was discov¬ 
ered in Juxphaor, Mexico, in 1872, by J. T. 
Vanderberg, and named Juarezi, in honor 
of President Juarez of Mexico. It was sent 
by Vanderberg to an English florist, who 
exhibited it in England in 1880. 
Dahlia tubers or bulbs were used as a food in Mexico, and at 
one time in France. It was attempted to introduce them into cul¬ 
tivation in all Europe as a food for either man or cattle, but the 
taste was found nauseous to European palates. 
The Culture of the Dahlia 
Success Will Follow if You Observe These Instructions. 
LOCATION. The Dahlia is not as particular as most of our 
flowers, and will succeed under a great many adverse conditions. 
There are, however, certain locations where Dahlias seem to outdo 
themselves. An open sunny location seems to favor them at all 
times. Dahlias do well on high and low land, on hill sides or 
perfectly level land, giving good results in each location. 
I find Dahlias are particularly adapted for seashore use, and 
not only do well, but thrive; for the reason of the moisture, and 
principally the heavy dews which collect during the nights. 
I also find that many varieties do well with partial shade, pro¬ 
ducing fully as good flowers as they do in the hot sun, especially 
for exhibition purposes. 
Dahlias will grow and do equally well in any kind of soil; 1 
have sand, gravel, and heavy and light loam, lowland and hills ; 
and find very little difference, as far as the number of flowers is 
concerned; the only difference being that in sand and gravel 
they form a short, sturdy, compact plant, and in heavy loam and lowland they grow tall and rank, blos¬ 
soming about a week later than these planted at the same time in sandy soil. 
Little Bessie—Pompon Dahlia. 
See page 38.) 
PREPARATION. The soil should be thoroughly 
cultivated—ploughed or spaded eight to ten inches 
deep—well purverized and thoroughly worked oyer, 
thus affording an opportunity for rapid expansion, 
and making an easy path for the tiny rootlets. To 
secure exceptional results, have your soil ploughed 
or spaded in the Fall, or as early as practicable in 
the Spring; then just before planting have soil 
thoroughly ploughed or spaded again. 
FERTILIZER. Fertilization is one of the most 
important factors, to be successful with Dahlias. 
We all know that a growing plant, the Dahlia 
for instance, requires and takes from the soil, 
certain properties; and in order to keep the soil 
in correct proportion, the materials the Dahlia 
takes from the soil must be restored ; this must be 
done by Fertilization. You can use dressing; either 
horse, cow, sheep or hen, or Chemical. Or any 
Commercial Fertilizer rich in Nitrogen, Potash, 
Ammonia, and Phosphoric Acid. Fish and Potash, 
Acid Phosphate in the form of Bone flour, or Sul¬ 
phate of Potash, are also very effective. My system 
of Fertilization—Every other Fall I give my land a 
top-dressing of stable manure, ploughing under, and 
alternate with Lime using this as a top-dressing. 
The manure restores the properties necessary; 
and makes the soil light, and mellow; keeps it from 
being heavy, and caking; while Lime has the same 
tendency, and keeps the soil sweet. When planting 
in the Spring I use Commercial fertilizers ex¬ 
clusively ; a complete potato fertilizer and ground 
bonemeal, in equal proportions. Every fourth or 
fifth year I make a Fall planting of Winter Rye; 
then turn under in the spring, planting the bulbs 
with commercial fertilizers. 
An application of manure, either in liquid or 
ordinary form several times throughout the grow¬ 
ing season proves very beneficial, furnishing new 
material for the growing plants, and insuring you 
the very best results. 
TIME OF PLANTING. The time for planting 
Dahlias varies according to the locality ; whether 
your spot is sheltered or open; early or lateness of 
the season; and the time when the general crop of 
flower is desired. Dahlias can be planted any 
time after danger of frost is over, and under ordi¬ 
nary conditions will blossom in from six to eight 
weeks after they have been planted. It is always 
best to wait until the ground becomes thoroughly 
warmed. 
PLANTING. Plant bulbs in hills or drills, lay¬ 
ing flat down, six inches deep. Do not stand bulb on 
end. If you stand bulb on end, having the sprout 
near the top of the ground, all the new bulbs 
