East Bridgewater Dahlia Cardens J. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts 
first bud. The first bud on every stalk is always 
the largest, and produces the largest and best 
flower, ordinarily ; before the first flower is in full 
blossom, the first two side shoots have formed buds 
and burst into flowers; these in turn become 
passe, to be replaced by flowering shoots from 
the next set below, or the second pair of side- 
shoots. 
On most varieties the first flower has a short, 
stiff stem; we disbud to lengthen the stem and to 
secure larger flowers. 
The proper way to disbud: When the first bud 
is small the first set of side shoots should be re¬ 
moved with a sharp knife. This forces all the 
plant life that under ordinary conditions would 
have developed the first two side shoots, into the 
first bud, making the first flower much larger, and 
giving it a good long stem. Removing the first set 
of shoots also forces ahead the second set, and 
they in turn burst into flower. 
As you cut and remove your flowers, your plant 
sends forth new flowering stalks from the bottom 
of the plant; the more flowers you cut, the more 
will grow. 
Disbudding is more generally used for flowers 
for exhibition purposes; and when wishing the 
largest flower possible, for exhibition purposes, you 
can disbud every side shoot down the entire length 
of your stalk, forcing all plant life into the one 
flower; thus growing one flower of gigantic size; 
and this disbudding in addition to forcing with 
manure, taken up under forcing, insures you much 
greater success at exhibitions. 
Anyone can grow Dahlias of exhibition quality if 
they will digest these remarks, study plant require¬ 
ments, and then act accordingly. 
After your plant has been blossoming continually, 
and flowers commence to grow smaller, then is the 
logical and proper time to fertilize. Apply any 
good fertilizer broadcast, or any kind of manure 
available; but it is better to make two moderate 
applications than too much at one time. 
FORCING. To produce the finest flowers for 
exhibition purposes. Plant three to five feet apart, 
using a liberal amount of manure or fertilizer; cul¬ 
tivate frequently; apply at each or every other 
hoeing, fertilizer or manure, broad-cast or liquid 
form ; and disbud. “Nitrate of Soda” proves very 
effective for forcing; apply in liquid or crystal 
form, when plants are in bud ; make applications 
often, but do not use too much at a time. Nitrate 
of Soda is very powerful, and if too much is used 
it will burn up your plants, or force them to such 
an over-growth that the roots will decay during 
the winter. Apply Nitrate of Soda in crystal form 
on top of the ground, or in liquid form, using one 
tablespoonful of Nitrate of Soda crystals to a gal¬ 
lon of water, using sprayer or watering can. 
When the flower buds appear, only one bud 
should be allowed to come to maturity, enabling 
each branch to produce one exceptionally fine, per¬ 
fect flower. The flowers, for quality, must not be 
allowed to receive the drenching rains or scalding 
sun, when nearing full bloom, and should be pro¬ 
tected from such. 
It is always advisable to cut flowers that are to 
be exhibited as late as possible at night, when the 
dew is on them ; placing them in water, and keep¬ 
ing them as cool as possible over night, thereby 
enabling them to withstand handling, packing and 
transportation. 
WATERING. Although 1 wish it understood 
that I do not believe in watering, and find from 
experience it is unnecessary, a judicious watering 
of your plants proves very helpful. Watering 
plants in beds or various places, especially near 
trees, on lawns, along walks, etc., 
proves beneficial; but when you 
water, do it thoroughly. It is that 
constant surface sprinkling every 
day that causes surface roots and 
soft growth, that I do not advise. 
A thorough soaking once or twice 
a week during a drought, with 
| the soil stirred the following day, 
| is an excellent thing where 
water and time is at‘ hand. 
However, for commercial pur¬ 
poses we receive better results 
by not watering. 
2 HARVESTING. The harvest¬ 
ing and packing for 
winler is very im¬ 
portant, upon which 
depends your future 
success. Should you 
loose your Dahlias 
during the winter, 
you will be obliged 
to buy new ones in 
the spring; there¬ 
fore these sugges¬ 
tions are important. 
Dahlias should be 
harvested shortly 
after their foliage has been 
killed by frost. I find from 
experience that as soon as the 
frcst kills the foliage Ihe 
strength of the stalk recede- 
back into the bulbs. If they 
are not harvested shortly, 
each bulb sends forth a sprout 
which becomes a shoot, and if 
left sufficiently long, a stalk. As there is 
danger of severe frost any time after the 
first frost, no matter how long left, it 
can never grow long enough to reach ma¬ 
turity and blossom before being killed. This sprout 
