East Bridgewater Dahlia Cardens J. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts 
or shoot is new, brittle growth, not hard and 
woody like the stalks. When the clumps are har¬ 
vested, if the sprout is only two or three inches 
long, it is generally left to remain, if a foot or so 
long is cut off, the same as the stalk ; in either case 
this new and brittle growth lacking substance, 
and not having sufficient substance to carry it 
through the winter, commences to decay often¬ 
times causing the whole clump to decay. However 
the case, the plant life and vitality required to 
grow this is wasted, because it is taken from the 
clump. This same life and vitality should be used 
in the spring, when it would be ten times as valua¬ 
ble. By digging two or three days after your plant 
has been killed by frost, your clumps are in a 
perfectly dormant condition ; having no sprouts, and 
keeping perfectly all winter, sending forth sprouts 
in the spring, which is the proper time. 
Dahlias may be dug with fork, spade or plow. 
In digging or harvesting the clump, great care 
should be taken, dig them, and dig very care¬ 
fully, do not pull them up. You have a large 
cluster of bulbs or clump ; each bulb has a neck, 
which is the small portion between the bulb and 
where it joins the stalk. The clump should be dug 
or lifted carefully, so not to break the necks of 
the bulbs; if you crack, girdle, or break a neck, 
sometimes they will dry up, other times decay; 
however, when the clump is divided, the bulb with 
a broken neck is weak and not as good, and re- 
ouires longer for the bulb to become established 
before they commence to grow after they are 
planted in the ground. After removing the clump, 
shake gently to remove what soil that would natur¬ 
ally fall off. Cut off top within two or three inches 
above top of clump ; allowing them exposed to the 
sun and air for only an hour or two. Do not 
allow them to stay out two or three days to dry 
up, then wonder why they are withered and fail 
to sprout. Pack in a cool, frost-proof place, where 
extremes in temperature may be avoided, a place 
having an average temperature of about 45 degrees. 
Do not cover, or pack in any material or with any 
substance ; cork, sawdust, shaving, coal ashes, sand 
or earth, all hold and retain a dampness or moist¬ 
ure, something unnatural; are too close, compact 
and damp, causing them to start, to mildew, or to 
decay. Would you pack your potatoes in any of 
the above ? Simply pack clumps one-top-of-the 
other, placing each clump upside down. Undoubt¬ 
edly you are aware that the Dahlia stalk is hollow 
and that this hollow contains a watery substance 
or acid. If you pack your clumps with the stalk 
up, the acid will flow back into the crown of the 
clump, causing decay; whereas, if you turn your 
clumps upside down the acid must flow out, and 
clump will remain in a perfectly dormant condi¬ 
tion. Pack clumps upside down, in boxes or bar¬ 
rels. packing one-top-of-the-other. Dahlias in an 
old-fashioned cellar will keep first-class, without 
any covering ; in a cellar having a cement bottom, 
or heat, the boxes or barrels should be lined with 
heavy paper, and covered with paper or burlap. Cov¬ 
ering with paper or burlap excludes the air and pre¬ 
serves a more even temperature. In heated places 
the circulation of air, and heat, causes the bulbs to 
shrivel and dry up; a covering of this kind pre¬ 
vents the roots from shriveling. 
DIVISION OF CLUMPS. Although I divide 
clumps all winter, it is because of the number of 
clumps I have to divide; I recommend that the 
amateur wait until spring before dividing. Dahlias 
keep during the winter much better in clump form. 
In the spring the clumps commence to send out 
sprouts, which aid in dividing properly. Divide,, 
using a sharp knife. Separate, leaving each bulb 
separately, first dividing the clump in half, then 
divide to one bulb. Plant only one bulb in a hill ; 
never plant more than two bulbs. In dividing, 
great care should be taken, and a portion of the 
crown or stalk should be left on each bulb ; it is 
on the crown that the sprout starts, and if the 
bulb has no crown, the bulb is worthless. 
SIZE OF BULBS. The size of the bulb or tuber- 
does not in any way designate the size or quality 
of the flower. Some varieties of Dahlias always 
produce very small bulbs, while other varieties make 
large ones. Do not consider small bulbs worth¬ 
less, for they are equally as good, and in many 
cases better than large ones. Medium and small - 
sized bulbs more often produce the finest and 
highest colored flowers, and in many cases the 
best and most effective plants. The only requisite 
of a Dahlia bulb is, be sure that your bulb has 
one or two eyes or sprouts, whether large or small, 
and with proper cultivation success is generally 
assured. A clump, root, bulb or division of a 
clump, pot-root, cutting, sprout, and even a Dahlia 
seed, will grow, and blossom, all equally well; it 
is not the size, but the care and cultivation—culti¬ 
vation is the principal requirement of the Dahlia. 
CONCLUSION. There are no set rules to follow 
invariably by all, or even by any one grower year 
after year. In fact, each soil, location, climate or 
season, may call for different treatment. Study 
your plants, watch them as they develop, try all 
experiments along lines in harmony with nature’s 
laws. Success with Dahlias is the same as with 
anything else; do everything in moderation; ex¬ 
cess in any direction is unwise. In many loca¬ 
tions, conditions are so favorable that Dahlias grow 
to perfection with practically no attention. So it 
is with seasons, some years Dahlias do well the 
entire season ; but there is no reason why Dahlias 
should not be grown successfully year after year. 
My methods of cultivation are simple and easily 
followed ; the treatment and requirements so simple, 
there is no reason why you should not be suc¬ 
cessful with your Dahlias. The Dahlia is one of 
the easiest plants to grow, and will produce more 
flowers than any other plant in the garden, if 
properly cared for. 
Terms of Sale 
Cash With Orders. Remittances may be made by P. O. or Express Money Order, Bank Draft, or Regis¬ 
tered Letter at my risk. (Remittances for less than $1.00 can be made in stamps.) All orders will be 
shipped by Parcel Post, Express or Freight, whichever way we deem advisable, prepaid to all parts of 
the United States and Canada ; unless otherwise stated. I guarantee their safe arrival in good condition. 
No extra charges for packing ; one-half dozen at dozen rates. 
All varieties priced at 10 cents each may be had at $1.00 per dozen. 
All varieties priced at 15 cents each may be had at $1.50 per dozen. 
All varieties priced at 20 cents each may be had at $2.00 per dozen. 
Also the same with 25 cents, 35 cents, 50 cents, 75 cents and $1.00 varieties. 
East Bridgewater, Mass. Always address, 
Long Distance Telephone Connection. J. K. ALEXANDER, The Dahlia King. 
Springfield, Mass., July 14, 1915. 
Dear Sir: My family attended the Brockton Fair in 1913. In a letter received from my daughter 
of Ironton, Ohio, this morning, she writes: “You should have a dahlia bed at Duxbury; they are 
wonderful. I have never seen such fine ones as we have. Came from Alexander of East Bridgewater. 
Everyone comes to look at ours. He was the man who had such fine ones at the Brockton Fair.” 
I am simply drawing your attention to this, as it is many times pleasing to a person to know that 
exhibition and advertising sometimes pays. Very truly yours, L. S. BROWN. 
