J, K. Alexander , E. Bdrigewater , Massachusetts E. Bridgewater Dahlia Gardens 
Alight Cactus Dahlia 
When your plant has two sets of leaves, pinch off or cut 
out the whole top of the plant; at each leaf a branch 
will start, thus making four branches one at each 
leaf. Do not pinch off your plant more than once, 
as this system makes your plants two weeks later in 
flowering; but you receive four flower stalks, each of 
which will blossom equal to the one stalk which you 
would have received had you left your plants growing 
without pinching. When the plant is grown it will 
have a short, strong, single stalk, which comes only an 
inch or two above the ground, with four branches of 
flowering stalks. The plant is short and has a neat 
branching appearance; the branches are self-support¬ 
ing and are not easily blown over by the winds. 
The Massing System. This is the system I use in 
planting my immense fields—avoiding the extra 
labor and expense of staking, the woodeny effect of 
stakes and giving a solid mass of foliage and flowers, 
more beautiful and effective than where Nature’s 
beauty is broken at each interval with a stake. 
Plant bulbs in rows from 10 inches to 2 feet apart 
according to the amount of space you have to devote. 
The plants are self-supporting, each plant supporting 
and protecting the others. 
At the height of 18 inches spray occasionally with 
Arsenate of Lead, “Black Leaf 40,” Bordeaux Mixture, 
Hellebore, Pyrox, Slug Shot, Whale Oil solution or 
other first-class solutions to kill and keep away the 
aphis or green fly, which often infest Dahlias. 
Both wood ashes and lime are good at all times, 
improving the condition of the soil and are effective 
as preventives against insect pests. 
To obtain the largest and most perfect flowers, 
only the best and largest buds should be allowed 
to mature; the others being taken off, enabling the 
full strength to develop those into exhibition blooms. 
DISBUDDING. Some varieties of. 
Dahlias require thinning and disbudding 
to produce the best flowers. Varieties 
having an excessive amount of foliage 
and small growth should have a con¬ 
siderable part of their branches removed, 
while those having more buds than can 
be properly developed or matured should 
be disbudded. The operation in no way 
endangers the plants and anyone can do 
it. Thin and disbud if necessary, moderately 
or severely as conditions seem to require. 
Taking a budded stalk or branch, you 
will note the large or first bud on the 
stalk, and also, that at each leaf all the 
way down the stalk new shoots or bud- 
stalks form; these in turn produce buds 
and flowering stalks, which over-top the 
first bud. The first bud on every stalk 
is always the largest and produces the 
largest and best flower, ordinarily. Before 
the first flower is in full blossom, the first two side 
shoots have formed buds and burst into flowers. 
These in turn become passe, to be replaced by 
flowering shoots from the set next below, or the 
second pair of side shoots. 
On most varieties the first flower has a short, 
stiff stem; we disbud to lengthen the stem and 
to secure larger flowers. 
The proper way to disbud: When the first 
bud is small the first set of side shoots should be 
removed with a sharp knive. This forces all the 
plant life that under ordinary conditions would 
have developed the first two side shoots, into the 
first bud, making the first flower much larger and 
giving it a good long stem. Removing the first 
set of shoots also forces ahead the second set 
and they in turn burst into flower. 
As you cut and remove your flowers, your plant 
sends forth new flowering stalks from the bottom 
of the plant; the more flowers you cut, the more 
will grow. 
Disbudding is more generally used for flowers 
for exhibition purposes. When wishing the largest 
flower possible, for exhibition purposes, you can 
disbud every side shoot down the entire length of 
your stalk, forcing all plant life into the one 
flower, thus growing one flower of gigantic size; 
this disbudding in addition to forcing with manure 
(taken up under forcing) insures you much greater 
success at exhibitions. 
Anyone can grow Dahlias of exhibition quality if 
they will digest these remarks, study plant require¬ 
ments and then act accordingly. 
After your plant has been blossoming continually 
and flowers commence to grow smaller, then is the 
logical and proper time to fertilize. Apply any good 
fertilizer broadcast, or any kind of manure available, 
but it is better to make two moderate applications then 
too much at one time. 
FORCING. To produce the finest flowers for 
exhibition purposes use staking system. Plant 3 to 5 
feet apart, using a liberal amount of manure or fertilizer; 
cultivate frequently; apply fertilizer or manure, 
broadcast or liquid form, at each or every other hoe¬ 
ing, and disbud. Nitrate of soda proves very effec¬ 
tive for forcing. Apply in liquid or crystal form when 
plants are in bud; make applications often, but do 
not use too much at a time. Nitrate of soda is very 
powerful and if too much is used it will burn up your 
plants or force them to such an over-growth that the 
roots will decay during the winter. Apply nitrate of 
soda in crystal form on top of the ground, or in liquid 
form, using one tablespoonful of nitrate of soda crys¬ 
tals to a gallon of water, using sprayer or watering can. 
When the flower buds appear, only one bud should be 
allowed to come to maturity, enabling each branch to 
produce one exceptionally fine, perfect flower. The 
flowers, for quality, must not be allowed to receive the 
drenching rains or scalding sun when nearing full bloom 
and should be protected from such. 
It is always advisable to cut flowers that are to 
be exhibited as late as possible at night when the 
dew is on them, placing them in water and keeping 
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