East Bridgewater Dahlia Cardens J. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts 
History of the Dahlia 
The Dahlia is a native of Mexico, where they 
grew wild, and in their single state. Earliest his¬ 
tory dates back to 1657, when it was called Acoctli 
by the Aztec Indians. Later the name was changed 
to Georgiana, after Prof. Georgi of St. Peters¬ 
burg, which name is still used in some of the 
foreign catalogues. It was again changed to 
Dahlia, in honor of Dr. Andrew Dahl, a Swedish 
botanist. 
The Dahlia was first cultivated in the Botanic 
Gardens, at Madrid, Spain, in 1789, and at about 
the same time was introduced into England by 
the Marchioness of Bute. 
Dahlia Variabilis, from which most of the com¬ 
mon or Show Dahlias have originated, was single 
in its wild state. The first double forms appeared 
in 1814 and was credited to M. Donkelaar, of the 
Botanical Gardens of Belgium. The Pompon form 
appeared about 1858, followed by the Decorative, 
the origin of which is not clearly defined, but 
probably dates back some forty or fifty years. 
Dahlia Juarezi, the first Cactus Dahlia, was dis¬ 
covered in Juxphaor, Mexico, in 1872, by J. T. 
Vanderberg, and named Juarezi, in honor of 
President Juarez of Mexico. It was sent by Van¬ 
derberg to an English florist, who exhibited it in 
England in 1880. 
Dahlia tubers or bulbs were used as a food in 
Mexico, and at one time in France. It was at¬ 
tempted to introduce them into cultivation in all 
Europe as a food for either man or cattle, but 
the taste was found nauseous to European palates. 
The Culture of the Dahlia 
Success Will Follow if You Observe These Instructions. 
LOCATION—The Dahlia is not as particular 
as most of our flowers, and will succeed under a 
great many adverse conditions. There are, how¬ 
ever, certain locations where Dahlias seem to out¬ 
do themselves. An open sunny location seems to 
favor them at all times. Dahlias do well on high 
and low land, on hill sides or perfectly level land, 
giving good results in each location. 
I find Dahlias are particularly adapted for sea¬ 
shore use, and not only do well, but thrive; for 
the reason of the moisture, and principally the 
heavy dews which collect during the nights. 
I also find that many varieties do well with 
partial shade, producing fully as good flowers as 
they do in the hot sun, especially for exhibition 
purposes. 
Dahlias will grow and do equally well in any 
kind of soil; I have sand, gravel, and heavy and 
light loam, lowland and hills; and find very little 
difference, as far as the number of flowers is con- 
Queen Wilhelmina (See page 26). 
2 
cerned; the only difference being that in sand and 
gravel they form a short, sturdy, compact plant, 
and in heavy loam and lowland they grow tall and 
rank, blossoming about a week later than those 
planted at the same time in sandy soil. 
PREPARATION—The soil should be thoroughly 
cultivated—ploughed or spaded eight to ten inches 
deep—well pulverized and thoroughly worked over, 
thus affording an opportunity for rapid expan¬ 
sion, and making an easy path for the tiny root¬ 
lets. To secure exceptional results, have your soil 
ploughed or spaded in the Fall, or as early as 
practicable in the Spring ; then just before plant¬ 
ing have soil thoroughly ploughed or spaded again. 
FERTILIZER—Fertilization is one of the most 
important factors, to be successful with Dahlias. 
We all know that a growing plant, the Dahlia 
for instance, requires and takes from the soil, 
certain properties; and in order to keep the soil 
in correct proportion, the materials the Dahlia 
takes from the soil must be restored; this must be 
done by Fertilization. You can use dressing ; either 
horse, cow, sheep or hen, or Chemicals. Or any 
Commercial Fertilizer rich in Nitrogen, Potash, 
Ammonia, and Phosphoric Acid. Fish and Potash, 
Acid Phosphate in the form of Bone flour, or Sul¬ 
phate of Potash, are also very effective. My sys¬ 
tem of Fertilization—Every other Fall I give my 
land a top-dressing of stable manure, ploughing 
under, and alternate with Lime using this as a 
top-dressing. 
The manure restores the properties necessary; 
and makes the soil light, and mellow; keeps it 
from being heavy, and caking; while Lime has 
the same tendency and keeps the soil sweet. When 
planting in the Spring I use Commercial fertil¬ 
izers exclusively; a complete potato fertilizer and 
ground bonemeal, in equal proportions. Every 
fourth or fifth year I make a Fall planting of 
Winter Rye; then turn under in the spring, 
planting the bulbs with commercial fertilizers. 
An application of manure, either in liquid or 
ordinary form several times throughout the grow¬ 
ing season proves very beneficial, furnishing new 
material for the growing plants, and insuring you 
the very best results. 
TIME OF PLANTING—The time for planting 
Dahlias varies according to the locality; whether 
your spot is sheltered or open; early or lateness 
of the season; and the times when the general 
crop of flower is desired. Dahlias can be planted 
any time after danger of frost is over, and under 
ordinary conditions will blossom in from six to 
eight weeks after they have been planted. It is 
always best to wait until the ground becomes 
thoroughly warmed. 
PLANTING—Plant bulbs in hills or drills, lay¬ 
ing flat down, six inches deep. Do not stand 
the bulb on end. If you stand the bulb on 
end, having the sprout near the top of the 
ground, all the new bulbs which form, will grow 
