East Bridgewater Dahlia Gardens J. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts 
first bud, making the first flower much 
larger, and giving it a good long stem. 
Removing the first set of shapts also 
forces ahead the second set, and they 
in turn burst into flower. 
As you cut and remove your flowers, 
your plant sends forth new flowering 
stalks from the bottom of the plant; 
the more flowers you cut, the more 
will grow. 
Disbudding is more generally used 
for flowers for exhibition purposes ; and 
when wishing the largest flower pos¬ 
sible, for exhibition purposes, you can 
disbud every side shoot down the en¬ 
tire length of your stalk, forcing all 
plant life into the one flower; thus 
growing one flower of gigantic size; 
and this disbudding in addition to forc¬ 
ing with manure, taken up under forc¬ 
ing, insures you much greater success 
at exhibitions. 
Anyone can grow Dahlias of exhibition qual¬ 
ity if they will digest these remarks, study 
plant requirements, and then act accordingly. 
After your plant has been blossoming con¬ 
tinually and flowers commence to grow smaller, 
then is the logical and proper time to fertilize. 
Apply any good fertilizer broadcast, or any 
kind of manure available, but it is better to 
make two moderate applications than too much 
at one time. 
FORCING. To produce the finest flowers 
for exhibition purposes. Plant three to five 
feet apart, using a liberal amount of manure 
or fertilizer; cultivate frequently; apply at 
each or every other hoeing, fertilizer or ma¬ 
nure, broad-cast or liquid form; and disbud. 
“Nitrate of Soda” proves very effective for 
forcing; apply in liquid or crystal form, when 
plants are in bud; make applications often, 
but do not use too much at a time. Nitrate 
of Soda is very powerful, and if too much is 
used it will burn up your plants, or force 
them to such an over-growth that the roots 
will decay during the winter. Apply Nitrate 
of Soda in crystal form on top of the ground, 
or in liquid form, using one tablespoonful of 
Nitrate of Soda crystals to a gallon of water, 
using sprayer or watering can. 
When the flower buds appear, only one bud 
should be allowed to come to maturity, enabling 
each branch to produce one exceptionally fine, per¬ 
fect flower. The flowers, for quality, must not be 
allowed to receive the drenching rains or scalding 
sun, when nearing full bloom, and should be pro¬ 
tected from such. 
It is always advisable to cut flowers that are to 
be exhibited as late as possible at night, when the 
dew is on them; placing them in water, and keep¬ 
ing them as cool as possible over night, thereby 
enabling them to withstand handling, packing and 
transportation. 
WATERING. Although I wish it understood 
that I do not believe in watering, and find from 
experience it is unnecessary, a judicious watering 
of your plants proves very helpful. Watering 
plants in beds oi various places, especially near 
trees, on lawns, a 'ong walks, etc., proves bene¬ 
ficial ; but when you water, do it thoroughly. It 
is that constant surface sprinkling every day that 
causes surface roots and soft growth, that I do 
not advise.. A thorough soaking once or twice 
a week during a drought, with the soil stirred the 
following day, is an excellent thing where water 
and time is at hand. 
However, for commercial purposes we receive 
better results by not watering. 
HARVESTING. The harvesting and packing for 
winter is very important, upon which depends 
your future success. Should you loose your Dahl¬ 
ias during the winter, you will be obliged to buy 
new ones in the spring; therefore these sugges¬ 
tions are important. 
Alight, Cactus Dahlia (See Description, page 11). 
Both Wood Ashes and Lime are good at all 
times, and in addition to being good fertilizers, 
are effective as preventatives against insect pests. 
To obtain the largest and most perfect flowers, 
only the best and largest buds should be allowed 
to mature; the others taken off, enabling the full 
strength to develop those into exhibition blooms. 
DISBUDDING. Some varieties of Dahlias re¬ 
quire thinning and disbudding to produce the best 
flowers. Varieties having an excessive amount of 
foliage and small growth should have a consider¬ 
able part of their branches removed, while those 
having more buds than can be properly developed 
or matured should be disbudded. The operation 
in no way endangers the plants, and anyone can 
do it. Thin and disbud if necessary, moderately 
or severely as conditions seem to require. 
Taking a budded stalk or branch, you will note 
the large or first bud on the stalk, and also, that 
at each leaf all the way down the stalk new 
shoots or bud-stalks form; these in turn produce 
buds and flowering stalks, which over-top the 
first bud. The first bud on every stalk is always 
the largest, and produces the largest and best 
flower, ordinarily; before the first flower is in full 
blossom, the first two side shoots have formed buds 
and burst into flowers; these in turn become 
passe, to be replaced by flowering shoots from 
the next set below, or the second pair of side- 
shoots. 
On most varieties the first flower has a short, 
stiff stem; we disbud to lengthen the stem and to 
secure larger flowers. 
The proper way to disbud: When the first bud 
is small the first set of side shoots should be re¬ 
moved with a sharp knife. This forces all the 
plant life that under ordinary conditions would 
have developed the first two side shoots, into the 
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